Up hill battle

us2 · Post by **us2** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:27 pm

Thats bloody priceless Brian.

I'm pleased you have it running again.

merlin · Post by **merlin** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:34 pm

B101 wrote:
merlin wrote:Hooray fixed my Pertronix problem!!
Tools and instructions are as follows
1 Screw driver
2 Hammer
3 Anvil
4 Big bladder of urine and a good strong right arm

Instructions for hassle free running
1 Remove the dizzy cap
2 Remove the round rotor and place on anvil
3 Remove the Pertronix electronic uint and place next to the rotor
4 With your strongest arm and hammer in hand, smash the 2 pieces on the anvil till unregognisable then piss and spit (optional) on the remains.
5 Pick up the remains with a rubber gloved hand (If you are a princess) and throw as far away as possible. Your factor of stress should be at a low level buy this stage.
6 Install a new condenser and set of points adjust timing and go for a drive!!

May I NEVER befoul my car again by using such a rubbish product.
Haha its getting to that stage trust me.
Where did you pick up your new condenser and points?

I got the parts from my local garage.
$23 for points
$24 for condenser

B101 · Post by **B101** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:56 pm

I'm going to have one more go at it tomorrow and if it doesn't work then a will apply a big hammer to it. That's sure to fix it

Baker93 · Post by **Baker93** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:43 pm

Yep priceless. Thats what i call a process of elimination !!! Trust nothing, and assume nothing, i wish i had never experienced faulty new parts !!!. Glad its going .
You still need a better ignition ! Go with something really well known. Lots of us have run MSD 6ALs with 280zx distributor. Cheap and very effective or electromotive multi coil crank fire. No distributor expensive and very very effective !
Or just use it and rev it till it dont rev no more !!

limezed · Post by **limezed** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:52 pm

Don't give up yet, these can work well.

I remember reading about a rev limit issue while researching the Pertronix a couple of years ago. I can't find the thread but there are many discussions about it out there on the web. Here is one:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/elec ... -5k-3.html

Good long read with no conclusion at the end - where's that hammer and anvil I hear you say. But it does have some good suggestions to eliminate. Higher voltage will show up defficiencies in distributor cap, worn distributor shaft, optical sensor not aligned, poor ht leads, advance not working, even carbs too rich / lean. Could be anyone, several or something else. But there are enough of them out there to suggest they can and do operate well. Im sure there are much much better electronic timing units, but they do not come cheap.

Mine went in easy and I've had no problems (other than losing the ignition feed the other week, but nzeder put me straight there), but I may have been fortunate enough to have had less worn components to start with. If you were a little closer I would lend you my set up to help eliminate parts, maybe someone else in chrischurch can assist.

Good luck and keep us updated with the results - it could be me with the same issue next.
Cheers, Karl.

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 4:07 pm

Eliminate things one by one. swap coil, just because it says blaster don't make it good. Study Datsun ignition wiring diagram, tach runs on a positive loop. This means the 12V Ign feed goes via the tach and then to ballast resistor then coil. The start position bypasses ballast resistor to give coil an extra boost. Original coil is not actually 12V but more like 9V. Just saying to give you a better understanding. Could you have wired it wrong, is wiring original or has it been modded in past? A fused jumper cable from Battery positive to coil positive could be a good test. Good luck, chop wood if you need to.

B101 · Post by **B101** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:37 pm

sorry for taking so long to get back.
unfortunately got some bad news regarding both my parents and there health so i have put the car on hold until now.

i have changed the coil over back to the high performance one that was in there before i got it and allready its running better but . . . . . i have seemed to have buggered the tacho as its not reading anything while the car is running / reving. have taken it out for a spin and its running strong and ideling well.
i have 2 black/white wires, one gets power when the key is turned just before starting the engine. and goes to the ballast resistor (not sure what the other does)
also a green/white wire. is this for my tacho?? not getting volts from this one in the start position and it is connected to the other side of the ballast resistor.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:51 pm

Here in info on getting your tacho working.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/dist ... index.html

it is towards the bottom of the page - shows clear diagram of how it is wired stock and how to wire when you do the 280zx electronic dizzy conversion - wiring is the same for the pertonix/luminition other electronic conversions.

Looks like you have the wrong wires on the ballast resistor. I would go back and wire as per stock shown above. Then study the new version below that is used to get the 280zx dizzy to work - you need the pertonix wired the same way.

Hope that helps.

But to recap - the B/W wire that is getting power on start = the output from the tacho. The B/W wire that has power on Run = goes to one end of the ballast. The G/W goes to the other end of the Ballast - feeds the tacho when in Run. It is then the output from the tacho that goes to the + of the coil directly. The B wire goes from the - coil to the points (this will change when you wire for pertronix). So get that part right first then look to wiring in the pertronix as required.

B101 · Post by **B101** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:08 pm

nzeder wrote:Here in info on getting your tacho working.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/dist ... index.html

it is towards the bottom of the page - shows clear diagram of how it is wired stock and how to wire when you do the 280zx electronic dizzy conversion - wiring is the same for the pertonix/luminition other electronic conversions.

Looks like you have the wrong wires on the ballast resistor. I would go back and wire as per stock shown above. Then study the new version below that is used to get the 280zx dizzy to work - you need the pertonix wired the same way.

Hope that helps.

But to recap - the B/W wire that is getting power on start = the output from the tacho. The B/W wire that has power on Run = goes to one end of the ballast. The G/W goes to the other end of the Ballast - feeds the tacho when in Run. It is then the output from the tacho that goes to the + of the coil directly. The B wire goes from the - coil to the points (this will change when you wire for pertronix). So get that part right first then look to wiring in the pertronix as required.

it wouldnt surprise me. thanks

B101 · Post by **B101** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:25 pm

i see what i have missed so i need to hook up the black/white wire to the + side of the coil to complete the circuit?

this is what i went off when installing the pertronix ingition system.
fig 3

B101 · Post by **B101** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:27 pm

also swap the two wires for the (red) ignitor with the wire that goes from the + side of coil to ballast resistor. . . ?

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:54 pm

Looks as though you have a ballast type coil, the Flamethrower most likely isn't and was getting too low a voltage. The Pertronics may now be running with a reduced voltage. The diagram shown is fairly helpfull. If using a ballast coil you must have ballast resistor in circuit which reduces the voltage seen by coil while engine running. This is bypassed while engine is cranked to start to overcome the voltage drop. You have noticed that with the B/W wire showing 10V. To use the Flamethrower coil the ballast resistor needs to be bypassed (join B/W run wire and G/W wire). The tach needs to end up in series with coil positive to work. Remove all your wires from ballast, turn Ignition on, test which B/W has voltage. This goes to ballast and is your run wire(Your Pertronics red wire should connect here too to get 12V). Turn key to start with meter on G/W wire and you should get voltage only while key in start position. This goes to other side of ballast and is one side of tacho including the start position on Ignition switch. The remaining B/W wire goes to coil positive and is other side of tacho. Basically you proved the coil wasn't wired correctly causing your problems.

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:01 pm

The black jumper may not be needed as one ot the B/W wire goes to coil, the red wire could stay but the G/W needs to be at other side of ballast. Just figure out which B/W wire goes with the red at other side of ballast.

B101 · Post by **B101** » Tue Feb 12, 2013 8:32 am

ZMAD wrote:The black jumper may not be needed as one ot the B/W wire goes to coil, the red wire could stay but the G/W needs to be at other side of ballast. Just figure out which B/W wire goes with the red at other side of ballast.

thanks for that.
it makes sence. i have it all hooked up and i have turned the car on and my revs go up on the tacho to about 500rpm then it dies while the enigine is running. i havent taken the black wire from the ballast resistor to the + side of coil seen in the pic

B101 · Post by **B101** » Tue Feb 12, 2013 8:37 am

so what you are saying is now i have the tacho in the circuit it is getting bypassed because i still have the black wire hooked up to the 12v (power when key is in start position) from the other side of the ballast resistor and its just finding the path of least resistance? maybe thats why the tacho went up a little then died back to nothing??
would this make sence?