Up hill battle

B101 · Post by **B101** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:15 am

us2 wrote:I had an old car many years ago that ran like this, and we traced it to debris in the tank, which would occasionally block the inlet. (Took off the tank and flushed it out.)

Another thought. Is the rev counter needle fluttering when the engine stutters. That could point to ignition problems.

8000 in second. What was that in MPH or Kph?

how hard is it to flush the tank? have never done it before. would this be a weekend job at home?

it was around the 75 - 80 mph mark.

didnt realy look at the speedo to much, was more concerned about what was ahead of me.

disruptiv · Post by **disruptiv** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:34 pm

so when your doing 100kph for say 20mins it doesnt do it then?

B101 · Post by **B101** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:36 pm

disruptiv wrote:so when your doing 100kph for say 20mins it doesnt do it then?

it wont do it if it isnt under any load. so if im doing 65mph in 5th and keep it there its fine but if i try and punch it while still in 5th it will stutter. then if i drop it down to 4th and punch it its ok until the higher rpm then it will start to stutter again.

disruptiv · Post by **disruptiv** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:28 pm

your carbs anit leaking at all?
clean it all up take it for a dive then recheck?

B101 · Post by **B101** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:39 pm

disruptiv wrote:your carbs anit leaking at all?
clean it all up take it for a dive then recheck?

carbs anit??

Jibber · Post by **Jibber** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:57 pm

Hmm, I had a Corolla do that to me once, there was water in the fuel tank. If it is gunk in there it'll be in the carb too. Can you see anything in the fuel filter?

I'd also be suspicious of leads, maybe one is breaking down, or a dicey plug. May even be a bit of tracking on the distributor too, Give that a good wipe out too and a clean up. Can't hurt.

After that, I'd be lost but there's many more here way smarter than me. Mine's a Z32, so I'm definately no expert at these things!

B101 · Post by **B101** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:42 pm

Ok so I put in the pertronix electrical ignition and swapped the points out and also the flamethrower coil. I'm guessing I have to redo the time though since I am not getting any power and its back fireing a lot. Will do my research as to what I need to do.

Slowly eliminating the problems I hope. Only time will tell

disruptiv · Post by **disruptiv** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:36 am

these dont have any type of O2 sensor in them do they?

B101 · Post by **B101** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:44 am

disruptiv wrote:these dont have any type of O2 sensor in them do they?

Not that I am aware of. I need to buy a timing light and try and sort the advance timing on it. At least that's what I think it is and it was running super hot after a short drive around the block, backfiring and couldn't rev past 3000rpm and gutless.

This would be the first time for me doing the timing so any advice is good.

us2 · Post by **us2** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 10:30 am

Sounds as though it's too far retarded. Is the exhaust manifold getting very hot very quickly.?

B101 · Post by **B101** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:20 am

us2 wrote:Sounds as though it's too far retarded. Is the exhaust manifold getting very hot very quickly.?

i am not sure but after taking her out i opened up the bonnet and everything was rather hot for such a short drive around the block so that leads me to think that is was

B101 · Post by **B101** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:53 pm

also i havent changed the timing on it because i never took the dizzy off or had it loose

maybe i have hooked up somthing wrong. . . .??

Baker93 · Post by **Baker93** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 6:26 pm

Hi
It is retarded !!! I know nothing about Petronix but with those symtoms and heat its retarded. You should not attempt ignition changes without a timing light. I personally dont drive a car without confirming timing. The results can be catastrophic !
Safe figures to start with ! 12 - 15 Deg initial advance 30 Deg max Generally wont hurt anything.

B101 · Post by **B101** » Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:46 pm

Baker93 wrote:Hi
It is retarded !!! I know nothing about Petronix but with those symtoms and heat its retarded. You should not attempt ignition changes without a timing light. I personally dont drive a car without confirming timing. The results can be catastrophic !
Safe figures to start with ! 12 - 15 Deg initial advance 30 Deg max Generally wont hurt anything.

Is there a chance of putting the timing that far out while i put it in there. It was fine before i swapped yhe point out.

Ill buy a timing light tomorrow and have a look. On the L24 do you use the marks on the crankshaft pully?

Baker93 · Post by **Baker93** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:27 am

Hi
Yes you use the timing marks on the crank. or marked on the front pulley.
A word of caution. Do not assume these or the pointer are correct. The following applies to everyone not just you ! Check your timing and mark your front pulleys in the following manner. It makes the timing game really easy for the future.
1. Make sure you have a good solid permanent pointer on the car. Mark the end of the pointer with white paint or similar.
2. Make sure you have a good timing light. A dail back version is the best but they are expensive.
3. Determine TDC on No1 (this is best done with a dial gauge down the spark plug hole) and mark front pulley in line with pointer with a bright white dot. (preferably in a little drilled Hole it does not clean off this way)
4. Beg borrow or buy a cheap degree wheel. Stick this on the front pulley with Blue Tack. Use a temporary pointer (bent piece of welding wire) mounted under a front cover bolt to point at zero on degree wheel. This pointer and the orientation of
the degree wheel can be anywhere. This is best done with the radiator out so that you can look through the front for accuracy.
5. Rotate engine (clockwise as viewed from the front) 10 Deg, mark pulley again. Continue rotating engine and mark the pulley at 20,30,35 & 40 deg
6. You should now have 6 bright white dots on your pulley.

I mark all my pulleys/balancers this way it is bullet proof. (until your balancer spins on the hub). You can at a glance with any timing light tell where your timing is at from idle to max RPM. (if it is either side of the out marks your in trouble !)
Using a stanadard timing light you use the marks on the pulley ie half way between first and second mark is adequate for idle. on or just past 4th mark (30 Deg ) is good at higher RPM (probably after about 3500 RPM )
Using a dail back timing light (much more accurate) you set the timing you want on the light and just adjust dizzy until pointer and first mark (TDC ) line up. With a dail back light you can also tell easily exactly what you have by adjusting the light until the marks (pointer and TDC) line up then read exact advance or retard of light display.
All of this assumes you have the wiring done correctly ! Please note the timing numbers i suggest will work. Im not saying they are they perfect ones for your car but they are a good start. It may want more or less maximum advance. This varies as every motor is different.
Call me if you need any further clarification.