Engine hasn't run for 32 years!! What to do to get it to run

badhabit · Post by **badhabit** » Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:22 pm

Right! The 72z that's is arriving soon has been sitting for 32 years without turn a wheel....

I've read a few forums on what you can do to help stop the engine from being damaged on startup.
Some say fill the engine up with oil to overflow. Idea is to get the crank bearings and as much as possible in oil. Also to but some oil on the valve train along with a kerosene / ATF mix down the bores and let it sit to seep around the rings etc. ATF has higher detergent content and would help clean things up. Then turn it all by hand and leave it sitting for a day or so. once all thats done drain all fluids and sort out all the usual bits like fuel spark etc and 'kick it in the guts trev'

The problem being is that the engine is as dry as dry thing with no oil but in the sump. Cylinders will be rusty etc.

Anyone had good experience with anything like this??? Some say some moreys upper cylinder lube is the go? Mixed with some ATF?

Also anyone had experience with cleaning fuel tanks? Dip them? Or ???

Any comments appreciated. Cheers BH

mungyz · Post by **mungyz** » Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:03 pm

We used to use a good electric pump (pretty sure it was actually a high pressure fuel pump) and pump hot oil directly in to the oil pressure sender port to "hot oil prime" engines prior to start up.

This will literally feed oil to every part of the engine that is normally lubricated by the oil system without having to turn the engine over at all

Once you have had the pump running for a couple of minutes you can turn the engine by hand or start cranking via the starter.

Would be a good idea to pull the spark plugs and have a look down the bores with a boroscope and see if there is actually any corrosion to worry about, a little CRC in there and soaked for a couple of days wont hurt anything.

For the minimal amount of effort required I'd pull the cam cover off and just have a look and check for serious corrosion or stuck valves and rockers etc BEFORE trying to turn it over, you could bend a valve and wreck it in two seconds otherwise.

Having said all this you would be surprised how well engines store, I have a brand new 20yr old Nissan motor in my shop that has never been run and it is in perfect condition, just like the day they made it.
Obviously it hasn't had the pleasure of being introduced to all the nasty acids and whatnot that come about during combustion though.

Just have a good check over everything and if it all looks OK try turning by hand for a couple of revolutions while listening/feeling for anything untoward (a little CRC in the bores remember!), then crank with starter with no plugs in to get oil pressure, fit plugs and fresh fuel and away you go

badhabit · Post by **badhabit** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:35 am

all makes sense, thanks.
the pump idea might be a bit tricky as i guess i'd have to get a fitting made up for the sender etc. '

I've also seen a shaft on the end of a drill placed down the dristributor drive hole onto the oil pump drive and spinning that up.

I'll get the car in the shed and have a good ponder on the issue.

ZILVER · Post by **ZILVER** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:37 am

What are the inside of the fuel lines and tank like?

us2 · Post by **us2** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:46 am

badhabit wrote:all

I've also seen a shaft on the end of a drill placed down the dristributor drive hole onto the oil pump drive and spinning that up.

.

You can't just spin the pump from the top, because the shaft gear is engaged with the gear on the crankshaft.

To do this you first have to remove the oil pump, take out the pump/dizzy drive shaft, and reinstall the oil pump. Then it will work, but you
need a reverse or left turning drill.

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:09 pm

Wow! Long time no use. Km's must be low. I'd do lot's of checks before possibly blowing an engine. Easier than rebuilding one. Remove spark plugs and look into every cylinder with good small torch, If rusted you will surely damage rings and walls if turned over (just my opinion). The others have good advice. Also check coolant condition and flush well. Throw away thermostat and fit new one. If no coolant in system air will have caused corrosion.

badhabit · Post by **badhabit** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:38 am

yep low 44000 miles.
Ive got a heap of new marts to fit before i do any turning so all good.

water pump, oil pump, hoses, plugs, etc etc.

thanks for all your thoughts. The Z is hopefully arriving today or tomorrow. FUN!

will keep a record of my progress.....maybe on the build thread! great work admin!

bernjean · Post by **bernjean** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:09 pm

Just looking at your picture of the engine bay, I see your car has a smog pump thingy fitted. We bought a Datsun 120y (b210) from an old lady here years ago and It had all the pollution crape on it as we. We removed the pump and everything else, had a big box of parts, had to change the carburetor as well, I still need to change the exhaust manifold as it was set up onto the bottom of the carburetor, we think to heat the fuel and make it run real lean. Any how it made a huge difference. When we removed all the old hardware it ran heaps better, Although the carb man felt that it could have had a different cam set up as well, he felt the new Weber should have made it run better still. has an A14 fitted, blew a head gasket and I haven't got round to sorting it yet. All the best with the build.

toycollector10 · Post by **toycollector10** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:49 pm

I'm assuming that you will have drained all the stale fuel out of the petrol tank and fuel lines. Even in a dry climate it's amazing how much a petrol tank "pants", sucking in air as the atmospheric pressure rises and falls. Any moisture will then condense in the tank. I bought a motorcycle out of the USA that hadn't run for 20 years and I drained out two litres of stale fuel and about half a litre of water.

niroshann · Post by **niroshann** » Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:06 am

Also check fuel tank for any rust. Tends to block up the fuel filter after some time and then engine cuts out. Few mins later car will start and this repeats. It can be a pain to diagnose if you didnt know. I've been there!

I have tried getting an engine that sat for about 7 years (outdoors, but with oil in it) to start. It took a couple of days of gentle coaxing so patience is required on top of the other suggestions.

Good Luck! (and make sure you record the attempts and the first start on a decent camera!!)