Brake hat material & finish - advice needed
Brake hat material & finish - advice needed
Hi all,
I am close to making my new brake hats, front & rear to fit new brake rotors, as well as caliper brackets.
Any suggestion on which grade of Aluminium and temper i should go for, as well as finish?
6061-T6 seems a possible choice, just would like to know any thoughts out there...
Also should they be anodized or hard anodized?
I have nearly finished modelling them, so need to hunt for good machine shops etc... any advice here also welcome, preferrably in the Auckland area...
thanks Grant
I am close to making my new brake hats, front & rear to fit new brake rotors, as well as caliper brackets.
Any suggestion on which grade of Aluminium and temper i should go for, as well as finish?
6061-T6 seems a possible choice, just would like to know any thoughts out there...
Also should they be anodized or hard anodized?
I have nearly finished modelling them, so need to hunt for good machine shops etc... any advice here also welcome, preferrably in the Auckland area...
thanks Grant
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
I recommend talking to Leon from Znoelli brakes in Manukau. See http://www.znoelli.com/shop/pc/home.asp
Hi There.
For brake rotor hats there should be no need to make / machine your own (unless your that inclined and want to). Cardwells amongst others sell plain undrilled rotor hats in various offsets to suit most common race brake rotors.
As for material for caliper brackets 6061-T6 would be the min / OK grade to use (mine are made of this and are 12 Yrs Old) or 7071 - T6 if you can find some. Last time i checked no one was stocking this in NZ (anyone feel free to prove me wrong).
Anodising or hard anodising is not necessary unless you want them to look pretty.
As you will appreciate the design, manufacture how and what they are bolted are of prime importance to the strength and durability of the end product.
If you are not sure seek professional advice.
As usual you are welcome to check out the mounts i have used and use the design if it is usefull. Finally any competent machinist can make these brackets.
Cheers
Anthony
For brake rotor hats there should be no need to make / machine your own (unless your that inclined and want to). Cardwells amongst others sell plain undrilled rotor hats in various offsets to suit most common race brake rotors.
As for material for caliper brackets 6061-T6 would be the min / OK grade to use (mine are made of this and are 12 Yrs Old) or 7071 - T6 if you can find some. Last time i checked no one was stocking this in NZ (anyone feel free to prove me wrong).
Anodising or hard anodising is not necessary unless you want them to look pretty.
As you will appreciate the design, manufacture how and what they are bolted are of prime importance to the strength and durability of the end product.
If you are not sure seek professional advice.
As usual you are welcome to check out the mounts i have used and use the design if it is usefull. Finally any competent machinist can make these brackets.
Cheers
Anthony
Thanks guys,
I while back I checked out Cardwells hats (which i think are wilwood ones), I had some with my last brakes, but last time i looked they had nothing that fitted properly.
maybe i should check them out again...
I have downloaded the hat drawings from AP racing for my rotors and modified them to suit the fit on the 280zx.
My fronts are using the floating style bobbins, but my back is fixed.
I'll let you know how i get on.
Mike, thanks for the link...
I while back I checked out Cardwells hats (which i think are wilwood ones), I had some with my last brakes, but last time i looked they had nothing that fitted properly.
maybe i should check them out again...
I have downloaded the hat drawings from AP racing for my rotors and modified them to suit the fit on the 280zx.
My fronts are using the floating style bobbins, but my back is fixed.
I'll let you know how i get on.
Mike, thanks for the link...
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
znoelli gave me a quote today, price all up was ~$1600!
(cannot remember if that was including or plus gst, will need to take another look)?
The material they offered was 6061-T6...
(cannot remember if that was including or plus gst, will need to take another look)?
The material they offered was 6061-T6...
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
Thanks, always nice to go to someone that is recommended!Andy wrote:They do a great job!
cheers grant
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
Finally got me drawings sorted, now will go get prices again.
Out of interest done some study and it seems the best Aluminium grade to use is 2024-T4 for race brake hats.
This is stronger than 6061-T6 and has a much better crack fatigue strength than 7075-T6.
So if i cannot find that, will stick with good old 6061-T6 which everyone has.
In the book 'Engineered to Win' The essential guide to RACING CAR MATERIALS TECHNOLOGY or how to build winners which dont break' by Carroll Smith.
yes thats a very long title!
...he concludes that titanium is the best, but only for top teams with lots of money, otherwise he would recommend a hat/hub machined from billet 4130 steel. if designed properly would be lots stronger than alloy without significant weight penalties...
He also does not recommend 7075 at all, basically says stay away from it! ...he also says that 2024 is not the final yes, but its just better... no mention of 7071, cannot even find that actually exists
Food for thought
Out of interest done some study and it seems the best Aluminium grade to use is 2024-T4 for race brake hats.
This is stronger than 6061-T6 and has a much better crack fatigue strength than 7075-T6.
So if i cannot find that, will stick with good old 6061-T6 which everyone has.
In the book 'Engineered to Win' The essential guide to RACING CAR MATERIALS TECHNOLOGY or how to build winners which dont break' by Carroll Smith.
yes thats a very long title!
...he concludes that titanium is the best, but only for top teams with lots of money, otherwise he would recommend a hat/hub machined from billet 4130 steel. if designed properly would be lots stronger than alloy without significant weight penalties...
He also does not recommend 7075 at all, basically says stay away from it! ...he also says that 2024 is not the final yes, but its just better... no mention of 7071, cannot even find that actually exists
Food for thought
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2
2012 Fairlady Z34 ST (For the son/wife...)
2007 Fairlady Z33 NISMO
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 Datsun 280ZX 2+2