Game on........

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 4:54 pm

nzeder wrote:Do you know what head is on the block - I hope a L28 head casting number ie N42 or P90 not one of the L20a one

Yeah has an N42 head, I also have 3 N47's, a P90, a couple of E88's and an E30 that I could choose from if I had the time to get them rebuilt.

nzeder wrote:If I recall correctly the L28 runners are something like 34-35mm in diameter not sure about the L20a might be less so like you said measure measure and then because you can measure if it is a L20a unit and they have much smaller runners might pay to put a L28 one on if you have one.

Hhhhmmmmmmmmm think I might measure them both first, then see what the difference is.

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:48 pm

nzeder wrote:if it is a L20a unit and they have much smaller runners might pay to put a L28 one on if you have one.

Well got as far as stripping the manifolds off tonight, as well as a case of the disappearing water, there's also the case of the exhaust manifold that's not sealing properly, and the case of the extremely small inlet manifold ports....... Looks like the original L20A manifold to me!! It's quite a bit smaller than the openings in the gasket. I've got another bare manifold there, so will try changing everything over. There's a couple of small differences between the two but should be able to make it work.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:49 am

hmmm leaking exhaust - I assume stock cast unit - and leaking around number 6 I assume

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:38 am

nzeder wrote:hmmm leaking exhaust - I assume stock cast unit - and leaking around number 6 I assume

Assumption is correct, however it's leaking around 2, 3, 4 and a little from 5........

Heaps of sealant should fix it for now, until I can get the extractors off the other car!!

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:09 am

Well the motor is in pieces, and it's probably a good thing, with what I'm finding as I go along.

Some head bolts seemed a little looser than others, but that might just be me.......

Crank bolt was rather loose I thought, didn't take much to undo it........

Head has been seeping water for a while along the passenger side..........

One of the pistons has a little chunk out of it (probably a good thing I was switching anyway!!)....

Sump gasket had hell leaks & seepage........

Atl & A/C belts were both chewed out badly........

Exhaust leaks from the manifold.........

I'm pretty damn sure cam timing was off by a tooth........

Good news is the bores are really clean, block is straight, flat and level.

And the list goes on............ Got until about lunchtime Sunday to get her going again, should be pretty straight forward to put her back together.

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 1:06 pm

Rush to get the car back together, finish up at 2am Sunday morning. Cam timing was out by a little (chain must be stretched) so sorted that out, as well as all the other niggly little things. Go to start it, and wouldn't you know?? Flat battery!!

Charge it up until 9am, throw it in. Motor turned twice then fired straight up, ran fine as (after resetting the ignition timing). Topped water & oil up and took off.

Get there, go through all the official stuff, then get out on the track, Michael in front, Hayden (1600 with a Z18?ET) second, then me, followed by a few other cars. Pace car is in front and isn't really mucking around, takes us around for the first lap. Pace car pulls into pits..........

And Michael's car alsted about another 150m!! Blew a frost plug out the side of the block. So he was out for the rest of the day.......... Never did get to see how his tugboat went........

Good news is that Hayden and I were pretty even, he had low boost running all day (even took a headlight out for a cold air intake!!) but better tyres, and being a lot lighter you'd expect him to destroy me through the corners, but I managed to stick with him, even catching him in parts.

Bad news is I now have to get new tyres, a new clutch (slipping badly towards the end), repair and/or replace the brakes, fix the rear suspension, and find another intake manifold, as I couldn't fit the spare one I had (different throttle bodies - spare manifold doesn't have one and mine doesn't fit). Then we'll be right for next time.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 1:24 pm

Result

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:07 pm

Hahaha I'm not really counting that as a result, but it has given me a nice ibg list of things that I now "have to repair" (read upgrade!!) on the car before the next warrant check!!

While we're on that subject, I've just been ringing around to get prices on a new clutch for it, and the guy at southern Brakes & Driveline (who you'd expect would know what they are talking about) mentioned something about these being the same as a 9" clutch from an RB30 Commode. Is this correct? If so there's a huge difference in clutch prices depending on what you ask for and where!! I can get an Excedy heavy duty kit for not much more thanmost places want to charge me for a standard kit (Southern Brakes & Driveline have the best price so far as well, by a good $70!!). Will I run into the same thing when it comes to the brakes as well?

P.S. still working on that freight price for you Mike, went to a courier today - $17.50 on a 3 day delivery

so will get a price for snail mail tomorrow and let you know.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 3:07 pm

Re the clutch - well the RB30 commodore if it is indeed a 9" should work

in fact most 9" Nissan clutches might work. The input shaft from the 71b/c gearboxs are the same so is the output for that matter. The differences will be in the pressure plate height and therefore the release bearing and bearing holder. I am in the process (with another club member we are both doing the same) of upgrading from the FS5W71B box (reads 240z/260z/280z/720/FJ20 the list goes on) to the FS5W71C box (RB20E/RB20DE/RB20DET/RB30E/VG30E/RD28 and I am sure the list goes on and it does the Silvia/S13/S14 boxes longer but the same, so CA18DE/DET/SR20DE/SR20DET boxes are again the same just 45mm longer.....by the same I mean input/output shafts, ratios will be different and the internal design might be slightly different I guess depends on who the subcontractor was who make the box...guessing). I have some photos of the differences we have found so far and plan on putting up a post later in the Tech section. The SR20DET 6 speeds are different they have a different input/output setup.

And another thing the RB flywheel should bolt up to the L28 crank also as the both have 6 bolts.

Re the brakes the other option is to get some new material put on your old backing plates - this makes sence for a race brake package as you might not get the compound you require for the calipers.

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:25 pm

nzeder wrote:Re the clutch - well the RB30 commodore if it is indeed a 9" should work in fact most 9" Nissan clutches might work.

Well that's good news, seems like as soon as the seller hears it's for a Z the price automatically increases by at least $100! So I'll keep looking around, got about a month or so before it goes anywhere near a track again, so heaps of time.

nzeder wrote:Re the brakes the other option is to get some new material put on your old backing plates - this makes sence for a race brake package as you might not get the compound you require for the calipers.

Got access to a Surf that's sitting on the farm here, so might be flogging the front calipers off that, cause I don't think it's going anywhere in a hurry!! As for the rears, just need to get my other Z out here, I rebuilt the rears on that for a WOF just before I took it off the road, so will pinch those ones for now, along with the suspension & sway bars.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:40 pm

Hey Geordie,

Re the surf - there are two types of toyota 4 pots (well more than two but I will focus on the on wide ones that are designed for a vented rotor - what the hell I will list them all)

Toyota 4 Pots all should have a stamp on the side to show the type.

S12 = non vented rotor type
S12+8 = vented rotor type (20-22mm thick)
S12W = same as above but newer casting
S13W = vented rotor type (25-28mm thick)

So you need to be sure you get the S12+8 or S12W if you plan to use the Z31 non turbo rotor with a spacer. If you want a wider rotor find a set of the S13W you might have to hunt for a suitable rotor but I have attached the DBA full catalog here so you have check what is suitable. I am using the Z31 non turbo rotor with a spacer on my 260z hubs and some MK63 calipers (reads FIA Nissan option caliper for the a number of Datsun in the day including the S30) + I think I have 2 sets of the Toy 4 pots (might change to these if pads are hard to get for the MK63's)

Hope this helps

Here is the link to the DBA catalog = 8MB so be warned all those without high speed internet connections.

geordieggg · Post by **geordieggg** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:12 pm

nzeder wrote:Hey Geordie,

Re the surf - there are two types of toyota 4 pots.

Thanks Mike, found out all the info I need off Hybridz.org for the swap

don't know if I want to go that far just yet, need to get the driveline and revving problems sorted - no point in stopping for the corner if you ain't going that fast to begin with!!