Steering restoration

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240tim
Posts: 8
Location: Hamilton

Steering restoration

Post by 240tim » Fri Nov 26, 2010 2:31 pm

Hi,

Can anyone tell me what parts of my steering system I will need to replace/refurbish in order to make it good as new? Vehicle is my '72 240z.

Thanks.

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thunderz
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Post by thunderz » Fri Nov 26, 2010 3:18 pm

All of the rubber parts help alot. The biggest difference I noticed was replacing the steering rack bushings. It felt like a new car. Go with the Poly bushings.

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us2
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Location: Weymouth by the sea.Auckland.Don't dream it ,be there

Post by us2 » Fri Nov 26, 2010 3:19 pm

For a more direct feel, the squishy steering column coupler as well.
Check the ball joints for play, and the inner and outer tie rod ends
Get a WOF check and let them tell you.
!972 240z
Retirement is great. Growing old sucks.

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240tim
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Location: Hamilton

Post by 240tim » Fri Nov 26, 2010 7:47 pm

Cheers, thanks guys.

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thunderz
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Post by thunderz » Sat Nov 27, 2010 3:19 am

240tim wrote:Cheers, thanks guys.
Youre welcome, and nice car if thats yours in your Avatar.

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240tim
Posts: 8
Location: Hamilton

Post by 240tim » Sat Nov 27, 2010 5:46 pm

Unfortunately no, that car is just my inspiration, mines still a ways off.

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Michael
Posts: 61
Location: Miramar, Wellington, NZ

Post by Michael » Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:23 pm

On a related theme, my 1973 240Z was failed on a WoF yesterday with reason: 'Replace L/H rack arm (inner) due to excessive play'.

Can you sages out there provide guidance on what part(s) I need to source and suggestions on where from.

I *think* it's like this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_dRAqYRbWI
(as opposed to replacing the tie rod end which I think is a lot simpler to fix)

My local garage said they had tried Nissan but no luck. I said I'd try you guys...

(I'm in Wellingtron)
Michael
---------
1973 240Z (running)
1957 Austin A35 (in bits)

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nzeder
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Post by nzeder » Wed Aug 22, 2012 5:41 pm

one of the rack ends is NLA it is the one with the LH Thread on it, I can't recall which side that is. Some of the earlier 240z inner rack ends can come apart so just need to be re-tightened - later items and 260z items are non serviceable so replacements are required.

The side that is available is like an arm and a leg from Nissan - but check ebay.com there is an aftermarket one you can get....I will see if I can find a link for you....

Here you go - this is the place I got mine from a while back

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Tie ... 261wt_1163

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us2
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Location: Weymouth by the sea.Auckland.Don't dream it ,be there

Post by us2 » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:00 pm

Hi Michael.
Is your inner ball joint worn, or is the shaft/rack moving in the housing as in the pictures? You need to get an assistant to firmly wobble the wheel, while watching to determine what the problem is before going further.

If the movement is the same as the vid. you may be able to take out some of the movement if you undo the LARGE lock nut on the pinion housing and then tighten the large slotted screw.
From memory it is difficult to access with a large wrench.
!972 240z
Retirement is great. Growing old sucks.

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djz
Posts: 849
Location: Christchurch

Post by djz » Thu Aug 23, 2012 10:08 am

I believe the guys I work next door to (HBI Engineering) were rebuilding some 260Z rack ends that were sent over from Australia a while back. They rebuild ball joints etc etc.
Nissan 280ZX 2 seater RB26 powered.

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nzeder
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Post by nzeder » Thu Aug 23, 2012 2:12 pm

Image

If you look closely at this image you can see this is the non rebuildable item (well not without work aka HBI Engineering as Daniel has pointed out) you can see the weld towards the bottom of the rack end.

I believe early 240z items don't have this part welded tso it is possible to tighten them up. These later type can only come off the rack and get replacedb. But if a place like HBI Engineering can rebuild these great.

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