WOF Fail

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:04 pm

My 260z has been exempt from registration since early this year. Took her for a warrant and failed. New it would but had to be done. Failed on left outer tie rod end. I sold my spares with steering rack, who was that, are you able to sell it back to me. Leaking shock, noticed that, hoped they wouldn't. I've got 5-way adjustable shocks(brand unknown), can these be rebuilt? Need to have this sorted to get her on road for Nisfest. The pressure is on.

us2 · Post by **us2** » Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:51 pm

Hope you can get it sorted, Jason

Andy · Post by **Andy** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:05 am

Jase, I have new tie rod ends for a 240 rack, possibly the same, think I paid $65ea incl. freight on Ebay I will look them out and take a pic if you are interested.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:16 am

It was me who purchased your rack. So I have that part still as I only needed the inner joint. FYI guys 260z 2+2 have an approx turns lock to lock of 2.9 and the 260z 2 seater have 2.5 lock to lock

So you are after the one with the LHD thread correct? I forget which side has the LHD thread.

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:49 pm

Andy wrote:Jase, I have new tie rod ends for a 240 rack, possibly the same, think I paid $65ea incl. freight on Ebay I will look them out and take a pic if you are interested.

Andy,mine measure 223mm end to end. The manual doesn't mention any difference. Would be interested as yours are new, only if you really don't need em.

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:53 pm

nzeder wrote:It was me who purchased your rack. So I have that part still as I only needed the inner joint. FYI guys 260z 2+2 have an approx turns lock to lock of 2.9 and the 260z 2 seater have 2.5 lock to lock :)

So you are after the one with the LHD thread correct? I forget which side has the LHD thread.

Will be interested in buying back tierod ends (track rods) if Andy's ones are different, dont know there condition but passed a warrent last time I drove that car.

Andy · Post by **Andy** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:24 pm

Yes thats the length. Attached a pic. So $130 plus Courier to you still in their boxes is $11.37, loose without boxes $4.44. Let me know and I will PM my account and we'll get them away tomorrow.

holden_fan2005 · Post by **holden_fan2005** » Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:39 pm

Just give the shock a good clean/repaint it. They can only really fail you if it's visibly leaking/weeping.

Dodgy but if the shock isn't too bad go for gold

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:38 am

holden_fan2005 wrote:Just give the shock a good clean/repaint it. They can only really fail you if it's visibly leaking/weeping.

Dodgy but if the shock isn't too bad go for gold :D

I was thinking that last night as it doesnt show any sign of leaking lately. Pretty sure the leaking happenned trackday or a while ago. The shock is an insert with 5-way adjustable on top. They came from Z Parts Auto way back in 94 for a cool $1400 bucks. Maybe Dave will have an idea.

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 7:40 am

Andy wrote:Yes thats the length. Attached a pic. So $130 plus Courier to you still in their boxes is $11.37, loose without boxes $4.44. Let me know and I will PM my account and we'll get them away tomorrow.

Great! Box is fine,makes it easy for you. Yahoo.

us2 · Post by **us2** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:25 am

A wipe with a rag and don't go over any bumps before your WOF check.

I had a front Koni shock which appeared to leak. took them out and used others for a couple of years.

Had the Konis checked. All the guy did was turn them upside down for a week. Seemed to be fine.

Put them back and they are fine, so don't know what was going on. The bloke who checked them said

that the habbit of putting oil down the strut tube to stop rust can result in oil working up to the top, giving the

appearance of a leaking shock. I still oil the tube but not so much.

I was knocked back on a front wheel bearing three years ago. I knew it should be alright as they wern't

very old, but theres no point argueing with those people. I did NOTHING to it. A few days later took it back and a different chap

checked it and it passed. What.

Since then we have done many miles in the 240, including Wellington and back,and

it's fine.

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:04 pm

Yeah. I've noticed VTNZ get the same tech to do the recheck. After driving the car for a short time, fresh dust has collected on strut with no further leaks. Should have cleaned it and covered it with dust from garden to match other side aye!

ZMAD · Post by **ZMAD** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 6:56 pm

Another setback I had but forgot to mention. One of my mags went flat so got it repaired. After bringing car home, and cleaning it. Found cracks in alloy around studs, checked others and all had cracks of some degree. Well, scrap metal now. so on went the steel ROH wheels. Just clear the Toyota 4-pots.

Baker93 · Post by **Baker93** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 8:43 am

Hi
As Brian mentioned some people oiled tubes. This is of dubious benefit. For them to rust they must be getting a bit wet. In that case the best thing to do as we use to many years ago is to fill them with anti freeze. Cannot then be confused for oil. Also supposed to keep shock cooler ! Iguess this would work but i have absolutely no proof to back this up. The theory sounds good tho.

merlin · Post by **merlin** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 5:46 pm

Don't bother pouring oil down the shock housing/ strut tube coz it is just messy. You should not get water down there anyway. If you are really worried, coat the shock and top cap with copper coat antiseize. It does not wash off and never dries, resists corrosion out and you don't have to worry about getting things apart.