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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:14 am
by bernjean
Nice work, you are obviously a very talented man. You are affirming the future of the Z race. Thanks for that. I have just one question. Are you married? I f so what's the secret in greeting you wife to let you send that sort of time and money? I haven't got it figured yet.

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:52 am
by ZMAD
Brian, DTC may mean Diagnostic Trouble Codes and NATS is one I don't know yet. Googled the meaning of STM and it may be many meanings like: "Stan The Man" "Shoot The Mother" "Support Tools Manager" Etc. ???

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:46 pm
by mikey
Ha ha, sorry guys. I knew I shouldn't've used all those acronyms!

DTC is Diagnostic Trouble Code, the computer tells you these codes when it senses something wrong.
NATS is Nissan Anti Theft System, It's the thing stops the engine running unless you have proper car keys that match the car.
STM is Speed Tech Motorsport which is a tuning company from Wellington

And Bernjean I am indeed married and normally I don't get to spend all my time on the car. But I've got a deadline of next weekend so I can spend as much time as I want until then pretty much. Fingers crossed it back on the road by then!

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:49 pm
by mikey
I've hooked up a few more bits and pieces and the new airdam, I'll paint it to match the car when I have more time.

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Oh, and it bloody runs!

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Andre and Sam from STM popped round and reflashed the ECU and we're all go. It sounds brilliant with just the headers.

So this is what's left to do this week:

* Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in
* Fit radiator - It's at the radiator shop at the moment.
* Fix front brakes
* Put front bumper and indicators on
* Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - At machine shop, hopefully pick up tomorrow
* Fix Leak in fuel filler neck[/list]

I suspect the front brakes need a residual pressure valve. There doesn't seem to be any air in there, and if I pinch off the softlines the pedal is hard.

Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:37 am
by Pedey
mikey wrote:I've hooked up a few more bits and pieces and the new airdam, I'll paint it to match the car when I have more time.

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Oh, and it bloody runs!

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Andre and Sam from STM popped round and reflashed the ECU and we're all go. It sounds brilliant with just the headers.

So this is what's left to do this week:

* Get exhaust made - check with TTT when the can fit it in
* Fit radiator - It's at the radiator shop at the moment.
* Fix front brakes
* Put front bumper and indicators on
* Get wheel spacers to clear brakes - At machine shop, hopefully pick up tomorrow
* Fix Leak in fuel filler neck[/list]

I suspect the front brakes need a residual pressure valve. There doesn't seem to be any air in there, and if I pinch off the softlines the pedal is hard.
I'd say the front brakes will definitely need something, as when they (or similar) were on my car they felt terrible - I figured it needed a bigger master cylinder or similar?

Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:47 am
by mikey
Pedey wrote: I'd say the front brakes will definitely need something, as when they (or similar) were on my car they felt terrible - I figured it needed a bigger master cylinder or similar?
I think I've worked that one out now. I've mounted the calipers upside down, so the bleed nipple is the lowest point on the caliper. I need to flip them so it's at the top otherwise you can't get the air out of the calipers.

Silly me.

I'm hoping the master will be OK, it's a bigger master than the stock one (15/16ths) but I wouldn't want to go bigger for the sake of it and make the pedal rock hard.

Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:52 am
by us2
mikey wrote:
Pedey wrote: I'd say the front brakes will definitely need something, as when they (or similar) were on my car they felt terrible - I figured it needed a bigger master cylinder or similar?
I think I've worked that one out now. I've mounted the calipers upside down, so the bleed nipple is the lowest point on the caliper. I need to flip them so it's at the top otherwise you can't get the air out of the calipers.

Silly me.

I'm hoping the master will be OK, it's a bigger master than the stock one (15/16ths) but I wouldn't want to go bigger for the sake of it and make the pedal rock hard.
Correct. Bleed from the top.

Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:44 am
by mikey
Last night I put the radiator in. I got the outlets moved and a fan put in by Auto Radiators on Nixon St, can't recommend them highly enough they did a great job.

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I was gonna use a new aluminum one but really happy with this; suits the car better.

The spacers are turning out to be a massive pain in the arse. A miscommunication ment they put a locator ring around the original one without taking out the id to fit over my hub. I did explain this was required but it was lost in translation.

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I'm trailering the car to TTT first thing tomorrow morning to get the exhaust made so the spacers have to be finished today.

I also fixed my brakes after swapping the calipers around so the bleed nipples were at the top. And wired up the alternator.

Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 6:26 pm
by Baker93
Also check that your brake rotors are on the correct side !

Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:24 am
by mikey
Baker93 wrote:Also check that your brake rotors are on the correct side !
I've tripple checked that one. But good idea.

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:17 pm
by mikey
TTT did a great job on the exhaust, pleased I got them to do it instead of trying to do it myself. It's tucked up there good and proper, no knocks.

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So I very gingerly drove it home, took all the back streets and scraped on about 8 speed bumps, probably should've just taken main streets. ha ha

I got beached on the gearbox coming into the garage, so I really need to jack it up a bit. It is really low at the moment, the sump is about 3cm off the ground.

I've sussed the bonnet latch and radiator fan, fixed all the guard clearance issues and got the airdam back on.

I tried to take it for an actual burn last night, the ECU was switching to failsafe mode if I try to thrash it, I'd get into the top of second gear before it'd conk out. Then I'd have to switch the car off for a minute or so.

I didn't get to check the codes but I suspect a bad earth or bad connection to the throttle body. Hopefully get it sorted on Saturday. Woo hoo!

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Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 1:10 pm
by mikey
I made it to Leadfoot Ranch and back and met Rod Millen. We got to drive the driveway, the whole thing was fantastic.

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by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

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by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

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by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

This is what the engine bay is currently looking like

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Inspection light:

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All and all I'm stoked with how the car ran.

There was an issue with putting my foot right down, the ECU would go into failsafe mode when the pedal goes past 100%. That was easily fixed by winding out the pedal stop.

The engine stumbles a little bit sometimes when on the gas, for now I think that's an earthing problem. Will tidy up the earths a little and see if it helps.

And finally, the fuel pressure loses it occasionally and starts fluttering and bouncing like a tap hammering. Might need some dampening?

Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:11 pm
by nzeder
well done - top effort.

Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:11 pm
by djz
Looks great man, the engine bay looks so empty!

The ZX's have a fuel damper factory just after the pump, you could try sourcing one of those maybe?

How does the car sound now? The exhaust looks really good, what kind of muffler have you got on the back?

Nice work!

Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:21 pm
by nustad
Hats off for the speedy conversion - great to see someone do it rather than just talk about it (like me!)

I had the same thought as DJZ - how does it sound.........time for a video clip going up the road.......

Does it feel completely different to drive with the new front-mid engine set up! Must feel pretty nimble.