Pointers

Pest · Post by **Pest** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:17 pm

What did it end up costing to fix?

us2 · Post by **us2** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:04 pm

The fix cost about 400 bucks, and that was quite a while ago.
The bearing had collapsed and jammed things up a bit so they said.
I remember a good list of parts they replaced.
Have you had any quotes yet. You may be able to get a good box from
somewhere if yours is going to cost too much..
At least getting yours overhauled you know what you have.
A 280 box would fit I think. not 100% sure.
Someone will know..

kiwi303 · Post by **kiwi303** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:10 pm

Is it a 5 speed or a 4 speed Pest? I think it's Flauski that has a 280ZX 5 speed FS5W71B box on trademe every now and again with no nibbles so far, $150 start no reserve. Shouldn't cost too much to ship it up to aucks via freight co, a Falcon 5 speed from welly to nelson cross the strait by Mainfreight cost me $40, probably same-o to aucks, a little further but no strait in the way.

Checking my trademe acct, currently expired unsold listing, not yet relisted. Trademe seller "Flauski" in welly is probably the same username I've seen on here, also welly located IIRC.

HybridZ chatter says FS5W71x boxes and F4W71x boxes are straight plug n play swaps with same driveshafts. box length is identical, so if you have a 4 cog, the nissan built 5 cog will drop right in. It's only if you have the 81+ T5 borg warner from the turbo models the driveshaft doesn't fit.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/to ... imensions/

mike260z · Post by **mike260z** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 7:51 pm

After the 5 speed in my 260Z died i got a 5 speed from a 280ZX. Went in with just a few mods to the driveshaft and is mint as.

us2 · Post by **us2** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:33 pm

Is the LD 28 gearbox the same as L 28. I would assume so.

There's one on trademe at the moment 305004222.

He wants about $300, and it's in Waitakerie. Says good cond.

Numbers on casing L6 NMCA.

Expires Tuesday.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:46 pm

us2 wrote:Is the LD 28 gearbox the same as L 28. I would assume so.

There's one on trademe at the moment 305004222.

He wants about $300, and it's in Waitakerie. Says good cond.

Numbers on casing L6 NMCA.

Expires Tuesday.

different ratio's I believe wider more suited to the Diesel engine but it will work

Pest · Post by **Pest** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:59 am

Saturdays effort (pics attached)

us2 · Post by **us2** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 2:19 pm

Nice Luke. Did you get the box in yet.?

Pest · Post by **Pest** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 4:30 pm

Nope, but it's ready to go. Flywheel resurfaced and bolted up, new clutch installed.

I just need a helper to get it in.

minimad · Post by **minimad** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:00 pm

could give you a lift next weekend if you like?

Buster · Post by **Buster** » Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:10 pm

pest wrote:Nope, but it's ready to go. Flywheel resurfaced and bolted up, new clutch installed.

I just need a helper to get it in.

Another gearbox or fix the old one?

Pest · Post by **Pest** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:33 am

Fixed the old one.

asyado · Post by **asyado** » Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:53 pm

Hi Luke, abit of free advise for anyone for when you put a gearbox back in. Stick gearshift lever in temp or use a screwdriver which ever you prefer and flick gearbox into either 1st or 2nd gear before attempting to lift into place, once in gear remove again. By putting into gear you can get a better feel for how it's aligning eg gearbox input shaft spline to spline of the clutch plate and if you have an extra helper "always good" they can give the output shaft/driveshaft flange coupler abit of a turn as you give the gearbox a very slight wiggle forward. If output "doesn't turn" then you are lined up and will only need to move abit forward more to align the bolt dowels on the back of the engine block. If it still turns, clearly you ain't aligned up. Most people would use a dummy input shaft (metal or wood) to align clutch and pressure plate when tightening the bolts to the flywheel, I've always used my eye-crometer for centering( takes abit longer but is cheaper on the pocket) and "touch abit of wood" never had a box not go in on me yet. A VERY LITTLE SMEAR of either graphite or copper compound on the splines will help it all slide together, (should only just see a faint/shiny residue on metal splines) easiest way to do it is if you have got a spare clutch plate then lube both, place onto gearbox spline and move back and forth. Any excess is to be removed with a clean rag, repeat till not excess lube showing, too much and you will soon have a slipping clutch because centrifugal forces have thrown excess lubricant outwards and are now coating the contact surfaces preventing them to grip under load. I also put a smidgen of graph of copper lube where clutch fork fingers move on the back of the thrust bearing, again bugger all. Ooooooo and remember to slip back out of gear before turning ignition key and heading thro back of shed and making it "shed" accessible from both ways pmsl, really it has happened before. Then double check that the gearbox now has correct oil level/ grade of oil, and that the drain plug really did get tightened, hehe. Lastly, sweet job on the paint on the diff, I'm soon to follow in your steps. Nigel

Pest · Post by **Pest** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:56 am

Thanks, Brian and I are going to tackle the reinstall tonight, so will keep all of that in mind

djz · Post by **djz** » Tue Aug 17, 2010 10:06 am

I've learnt it's always a good idea to make sure you can actually get the filler bungs undone while you have the gearbox/diff out of the car, when putting them back in a little bit of thread tape can help not to aid in sealing but to make them easier to undo next time.