260z diff & other 260z/280zx parts

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hamish262001
Posts: 14
Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa

260z diff & other 260z/280zx parts

Post by hamish262001 » Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:37 am

removed from aussie spec 260z 2+2
good condition no noises or leaks
cant remember the ratio
had 140 kms when removed
location Whangaparaoa
Diff now sold

still have
P90 cyl head
280zx alloys full set of 5
L28 crankshaft
2 or 3 gearboxes in parts incl a close ratio
260z towbar
full car with new WOF

make an offer on anything
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Pest
Posts: 1178
Location: Auckland

Post by Pest » Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:49 pm

So that's an R180?

hamish262001
Posts: 14
Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa

Post by hamish262001 » Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:59 pm

pest wrote:So that's an R180?
Not sure how do I tell?

hamish262001
Posts: 14
Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa

Post by hamish262001 » Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:44 am

Bump

kiwi303
Posts: 260
Location: SalmonTown

Post by kiwi303 » Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:29 pm

hamish262001 wrote:
pest wrote:So that's an R180?
Not sure how do I tell?
The rear cover of the R200 is pretty near square, the R180 rear cover is noticably taller than it is wide.

Thats how I was told to tell if mine was an R200 vs R180.

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nzeder
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Post by nzeder » Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:37 pm

Looks like an R200 to me - do you know what year 2+2 it came from and if it was a manual or auto? This will tell you what the ratio should be.

260z diff specs should be as follows
upto July 76
Manual R200 3.7:1
Auto R200 3.364:1 (up Aug 74) and 3.545:1 (from Sept 74 - July 76)

From Aug 76
Manual R200 3.7:1 if fitted with 2.906 first gear (usually OZ spec 260z) and 3.545 if fitted with the wide ratio gearbox (3.321 first)
Auto R200 3.545:1

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us2
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Location: Weymouth by the sea.Auckland.Don't dream it ,be there

Post by us2 » Tue Feb 16, 2010 4:14 pm

So did the JDM 2+2 s30 have a R180? Being 2000cc I would think so. 4.1 perhaps.?

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nzeder
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Post by nzeder » Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:03 pm

us2 wrote:So did the JDM 2+2 s30 have a R180? Being 2000cc I would think so. 4.1 perhaps.?
All JDM S30 and S31 were equipped with R180 and only R180. I will check the ratios for you.

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nzeder
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Post by nzeder » Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:36 pm

Ok from what I can make out of the Japanese parts catalogues - it is complex with the different models for the home market but I don't want to go into what these Z, HZS, ZS all means as I get confused myself

Early catalogue lists ie upto 73
3.7:1 for ZS
3.9:1 for ZL, ZA, ZSA, HZS,HZ, HZG
3.545:1 for HZA, HZSA, HZGA
3.36:1 LSD was an option for all expect Z432 and Z432R aka PZ and PZR

engine, trim level, gearbox
S30S = ZS = L20a, Standard, 4 spd manual
S30SA = ZSA = L20a, Standard, Auto
S30 = ZL = L20a, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
S30A = ZA = L20a, Deluxe, Auto
HS30 = HZ = L24, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
HS30A = HZA =L24, Deluxe, Auto
HS30S = HZS = L24, Standard, 5 spd manual
HS30SA = HZSA = L24, Standard, Auto
HS30H = HZG = L24, G-Nose, 5 spd manual
HS30HA = HZGA = L24, G-Nose, Auto
PS30 = PZ = S20, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
PS30SB= PZR = S20, special, 5 spd manual

So now the later catalogue covering later S30 and S31 and the 2+2......

ahh getting to hard more models to deal with.....Z, ZL, ZT auto and manuals....ahh.

Ok there are 4.11:1, 3.9:1 and 4.375:1 were the available diff for the model range

All of the above does not apply if the owners added or swapped things around ie ordered options from the sport option catalogues available at the time. And there is a whole heap of ratio and LSD and many many more options for these cars.......I am getting a head ache just thinking about it.

hamish262001
Posts: 14
Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa

Post by hamish262001 » Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:42 pm

it's off a 1976 austrialian 260z 2+2 (also for sale)

will get a pic up tonight

hamish262001
Posts: 14
Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa

Post by hamish262001 » Sat Mar 13, 2010 4:23 pm

Diff now sold

still have
P90 cyl head
280zx alloys full set of 5
L28 crankshaft
2 or 3 gearboxes in parts incl a close ratio
260z towbar
full car with new WOF

make an offer on anything

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ZMAD
Posts: 657
Location: Tauranga

Post by ZMAD » Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:34 am

What does a close ratio gear box offer. Sorry for not being wise on this subject. Need to do something with my gearbox as very hard to use(worn out).
All Nissans are racecars.

hamish262001
Posts: 14
Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa

Post by hamish262001 » Sun Mar 14, 2010 5:20 pm

first gear will be a higher ratio than normal so that all forward gears will be closer together, so when you driving hard the rpms dont drop to far down when changing gear, keeping the motor in the power band.

Hope that make sence?

from memory second gear syncros and poss bearings are gone on all 3 of these boxes, suit parts or rebuild etc

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ZMAD
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Location: Tauranga

Post by ZMAD » Tue Mar 16, 2010 7:55 am

Yeah, makes sense. Sounds like my gearbox now. Anyone know how to tell. A long gone friend told me once how to work out ratio's like turning driveshaft say once and counting how many times rear wheel rotates (one wheel off gound).
All Nissans are racecars.

kiwi303
Posts: 260
Location: SalmonTown

Post by kiwi303 » Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:41 am

Thats for diffs not Gearboxes, you can do a similar job with a GB if it's out of the car.

Grab a cheap $4.99 laser pointer from the $2 shop and a blob of Blutack, stick the laser pointer to the output shaft end with the blutack, at about a 15 degree angle off the axis of the GB shaft. point the rear of the GB at a clear wall so the laser pointer makes a dot about 6" above the shafts height and place a blob of Blutack where the laser dot hits.

Next take an Isoseleces triangle of cardboard, the type with a short base and two long sides making a point, cut an X in the base with a craft knife and push firmly over the input shaft in the bellhousing so it points up.

Now turn the input shaft, counting how many times the triangle point points up again before the laser dot reaches the blutack blob on the wall after making a full circle.


If the gearbox is IN the car, you'd need to first jack the wheel up, turn the driveshaft by hand with the GB in neutral to find how many turns of the driveshaft for one turn of the wheel. Thats the diff ratio, next put it in gear with the spark plugs out so you don't have compression to worry about, and use a breaker bar and socket on the front pulley nut to turn the engine over until the wheel has made one full turn.
Divide the result by the diff ratio to find the gearbox ratio, or if you have kids, send one under the car to tell you when the driveshaft has made a complete rotation and ignore the wheel :P no need to divide the results then :D

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