260z diff & other 260z/280zx parts
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- Posts: 14
- Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa
260z diff & other 260z/280zx parts
removed from aussie spec 260z 2+2
good condition no noises or leaks
cant remember the ratio
had 140 kms when removed
location Whangaparaoa
Diff now sold
still have
P90 cyl head
280zx alloys full set of 5
L28 crankshaft
2 or 3 gearboxes in parts incl a close ratio
260z towbar
full car with new WOF
make an offer on anything
good condition no noises or leaks
cant remember the ratio
had 140 kms when removed
location Whangaparaoa
Diff now sold
still have
P90 cyl head
280zx alloys full set of 5
L28 crankshaft
2 or 3 gearboxes in parts incl a close ratio
260z towbar
full car with new WOF
make an offer on anything
- Attachments
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Last edited by hamish262001 on Sat Mar 13, 2010 4:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- Posts: 14
- Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa
Not sure how do I tell?pest wrote:So that's an R180?
Looks like an R200 to me - do you know what year 2+2 it came from and if it was a manual or auto? This will tell you what the ratio should be.
260z diff specs should be as follows
upto July 76
Manual R200 3.7:1
Auto R200 3.364:1 (up Aug 74) and 3.545:1 (from Sept 74 - July 76)
From Aug 76
Manual R200 3.7:1 if fitted with 2.906 first gear (usually OZ spec 260z) and 3.545 if fitted with the wide ratio gearbox (3.321 first)
Auto R200 3.545:1
260z diff specs should be as follows
upto July 76
Manual R200 3.7:1
Auto R200 3.364:1 (up Aug 74) and 3.545:1 (from Sept 74 - July 76)
From Aug 76
Manual R200 3.7:1 if fitted with 2.906 first gear (usually OZ spec 260z) and 3.545 if fitted with the wide ratio gearbox (3.321 first)
Auto R200 3.545:1
All JDM S30 and S31 were equipped with R180 and only R180. I will check the ratios for you.us2 wrote:So did the JDM 2+2 s30 have a R180? Being 2000cc I would think so. 4.1 perhaps.?
Ok from what I can make out of the Japanese parts catalogues - it is complex with the different models for the home market but I don't want to go into what these Z, HZS, ZS all means as I get confused myself
Early catalogue lists ie upto 73
3.7:1 for ZS
3.9:1 for ZL, ZA, ZSA, HZS,HZ, HZG
3.545:1 for HZA, HZSA, HZGA
3.36:1 LSD was an option for all expect Z432 and Z432R aka PZ and PZR
engine, trim level, gearbox
S30S = ZS = L20a, Standard, 4 spd manual
S30SA = ZSA = L20a, Standard, Auto
S30 = ZL = L20a, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
S30A = ZA = L20a, Deluxe, Auto
HS30 = HZ = L24, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
HS30A = HZA =L24, Deluxe, Auto
HS30S = HZS = L24, Standard, 5 spd manual
HS30SA = HZSA = L24, Standard, Auto
HS30H = HZG = L24, G-Nose, 5 spd manual
HS30HA = HZGA = L24, G-Nose, Auto
PS30 = PZ = S20, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
PS30SB= PZR = S20, special, 5 spd manual
So now the later catalogue covering later S30 and S31 and the 2+2......
ahh getting to hard more models to deal with.....Z, ZL, ZT auto and manuals....ahh.
Ok there are 4.11:1, 3.9:1 and 4.375:1 were the available diff for the model range
All of the above does not apply if the owners added or swapped things around ie ordered options from the sport option catalogues available at the time. And there is a whole heap of ratio and LSD and many many more options for these cars.......I am getting a head ache just thinking about it.
Early catalogue lists ie upto 73
3.7:1 for ZS
3.9:1 for ZL, ZA, ZSA, HZS,HZ, HZG
3.545:1 for HZA, HZSA, HZGA
3.36:1 LSD was an option for all expect Z432 and Z432R aka PZ and PZR
engine, trim level, gearbox
S30S = ZS = L20a, Standard, 4 spd manual
S30SA = ZSA = L20a, Standard, Auto
S30 = ZL = L20a, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
S30A = ZA = L20a, Deluxe, Auto
HS30 = HZ = L24, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
HS30A = HZA =L24, Deluxe, Auto
HS30S = HZS = L24, Standard, 5 spd manual
HS30SA = HZSA = L24, Standard, Auto
HS30H = HZG = L24, G-Nose, 5 spd manual
HS30HA = HZGA = L24, G-Nose, Auto
PS30 = PZ = S20, Deluxe, 5 spd manual
PS30SB= PZR = S20, special, 5 spd manual
So now the later catalogue covering later S30 and S31 and the 2+2......
ahh getting to hard more models to deal with.....Z, ZL, ZT auto and manuals....ahh.
Ok there are 4.11:1, 3.9:1 and 4.375:1 were the available diff for the model range
All of the above does not apply if the owners added or swapped things around ie ordered options from the sport option catalogues available at the time. And there is a whole heap of ratio and LSD and many many more options for these cars.......I am getting a head ache just thinking about it.
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- Posts: 14
- Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa
it's off a 1976 austrialian 260z 2+2 (also for sale)
will get a pic up tonight
will get a pic up tonight
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- Posts: 14
- Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa
Diff now sold
still have
P90 cyl head
280zx alloys full set of 5
L28 crankshaft
2 or 3 gearboxes in parts incl a close ratio
260z towbar
full car with new WOF
make an offer on anything
still have
P90 cyl head
280zx alloys full set of 5
L28 crankshaft
2 or 3 gearboxes in parts incl a close ratio
260z towbar
full car with new WOF
make an offer on anything
-
- Posts: 14
- Location: Dublin or Whangaparaoa
first gear will be a higher ratio than normal so that all forward gears will be closer together, so when you driving hard the rpms dont drop to far down when changing gear, keeping the motor in the power band.
Hope that make sence?
from memory second gear syncros and poss bearings are gone on all 3 of these boxes, suit parts or rebuild etc
Hope that make sence?
from memory second gear syncros and poss bearings are gone on all 3 of these boxes, suit parts or rebuild etc
Thats for diffs not Gearboxes, you can do a similar job with a GB if it's out of the car.
Grab a cheap $4.99 laser pointer from the $2 shop and a blob of Blutack, stick the laser pointer to the output shaft end with the blutack, at about a 15 degree angle off the axis of the GB shaft. point the rear of the GB at a clear wall so the laser pointer makes a dot about 6" above the shafts height and place a blob of Blutack where the laser dot hits.
Next take an Isoseleces triangle of cardboard, the type with a short base and two long sides making a point, cut an X in the base with a craft knife and push firmly over the input shaft in the bellhousing so it points up.
Now turn the input shaft, counting how many times the triangle point points up again before the laser dot reaches the blutack blob on the wall after making a full circle.
If the gearbox is IN the car, you'd need to first jack the wheel up, turn the driveshaft by hand with the GB in neutral to find how many turns of the driveshaft for one turn of the wheel. Thats the diff ratio, next put it in gear with the spark plugs out so you don't have compression to worry about, and use a breaker bar and socket on the front pulley nut to turn the engine over until the wheel has made one full turn.
Divide the result by the diff ratio to find the gearbox ratio, or if you have kids, send one under the car to tell you when the driveshaft has made a complete rotation and ignore the wheel no need to divide the results then
Grab a cheap $4.99 laser pointer from the $2 shop and a blob of Blutack, stick the laser pointer to the output shaft end with the blutack, at about a 15 degree angle off the axis of the GB shaft. point the rear of the GB at a clear wall so the laser pointer makes a dot about 6" above the shafts height and place a blob of Blutack where the laser dot hits.
Next take an Isoseleces triangle of cardboard, the type with a short base and two long sides making a point, cut an X in the base with a craft knife and push firmly over the input shaft in the bellhousing so it points up.
Now turn the input shaft, counting how many times the triangle point points up again before the laser dot reaches the blutack blob on the wall after making a full circle.
If the gearbox is IN the car, you'd need to first jack the wheel up, turn the driveshaft by hand with the GB in neutral to find how many turns of the driveshaft for one turn of the wheel. Thats the diff ratio, next put it in gear with the spark plugs out so you don't have compression to worry about, and use a breaker bar and socket on the front pulley nut to turn the engine over until the wheel has made one full turn.
Divide the result by the diff ratio to find the gearbox ratio, or if you have kids, send one under the car to tell you when the driveshaft has made a complete rotation and ignore the wheel no need to divide the results then