POR 15 paint

Rusty260 · Post by **Rusty260** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:32 pm

Has anyone used the POR 15 Range of paints?

I was considering using it on the underside of my car for suspension parts etc I am cleaning these parts off with a grinder and wire disc is this going to be good enough or do I need to get these parts sandblasted?

old_datto_fan · Post by **old_datto_fan** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 8:24 am

POR15 is magic stuff - be careful with which product you choose though as some of their paints only work on parts not exposed to sunlight. It is meant to be applied to bare metal unless you use their Metal Ready to etch the surface first. Have a look at por15.co.nz.

I have used it on the sandblasted chassis from my roadster and it flows really well to get into the seams and joins. Rock hard finish that has defied my attempts to damage with a hammer (had to test that it worked didn't I).

Great as a cheaper alternative to powder coating.

Only issue I have heard of is that a friend used their petrol tank sealer to seal the tank of his MGB without realising there was a filter on the end of the pickup pipe. Did a great job of stopping fuel flow as well as an excellent job of sealing the tank as was found when it was cut open to fix the problem. What do you deserve if you drive an MGB though!

M4vr1k · Post by **M4vr1k** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:14 am

magic, magic stuff. The entire interior of the Zed is layered in it. As Old Datto Fan said, it flows really nicely, paints on easily, and wont come off!

Be careful when painting with it though, because it is so thin it splashes easily, and can take weeks to come off skin. Keep a bottle of turpentine handy, just in case. We used the black POR15 for the floor of the zed, and we have tried the clear stuff on the airbox on the Torana, but it wasnt as nice a finish, came out...well, messy is the best way to describe it. Paint it on with some paintbrushes, and dont bother cleaning them, just head to the $2 shop and buy a few packets of paintbrushes, because youll be throwing one away every time you paint

but like i said, liquid gold

old_datto_fan · Post by **old_datto_fan** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:19 am

And the other thing is only ever paint out of a disposable container - only open the original tin to pour it into a second container and never tip any back into the original.

M4vr1k · Post by **M4vr1k** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:22 am

ooh yes, Be careful when closing the old container too, as any paint left on the rim will harden and make it a real pain to get the lid off again. A good trick is to put gladwrap over the tin, then put the lid on, creating a good seal. Also stops the paint in the tin going off and forming a thick skin, which you have to break in order to get the paint out.

now THAT is a pain in the ass

Rusty260 · Post by **Rusty260** » Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:51 pm

Thanks guys

Will preparing the parts with a wire wheel on the grinder be good enough or do you think I need to go to the expense of having parts sandblasted?

M4vr1k · Post by **M4vr1k** » Sat Jul 08, 2006 6:46 pm

wire wheel or a grinder is just fine

nustad · Post by **nustad** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 12:48 pm

I also vote to say Por-15 is great. Hammerite is also good stuff.

In some respects I think it is better than powder coat as it doesn't chip. If you get all the loose scale off with the wire wheel and then wash all the dust off with turps then you should have a good surface for painting.

I have used POR-15 heat proof paint on a set of headers and it still looks brand spanking. I also used clear on alloy but despite them saying it was self leveling I reckon spraying would be a better solution in that instance.

Parts will look pretty after painting - nice and satisfying