Reccomended oil for L28 engine?
Reccomended oil for L28 engine?
Im curious what sort of oil to use in my L28? Haynes workshop manual says 15w-50 viscosity. And I have been using that, but it does USE a BIT of oil. I was also told by the previous owner to use Mineral NOT Synthetic as synthetic oil isnt compatible with the oil seals. Is this correct?
Owner of a Nissan 280ZX, a Toyota WiLL VS (yes its spelt with capital Ls) for the missus and a 2005 Nissan Skyline 3.5 litre manual sedan
How many km's as the engine done - what type of driving do you do? How often will you change your oil?
Why ask these question? Well it will partly determine what you should use. My Navara Ute (Z20 engine = L20b with a cross flow NAPS-Z head) has done 255,000km's and I am using a 100% Mineral Oil grade is 20w/60. Not as thin as a 15w/60 but due to the km's of the vehicle this oil will provide good start-up protection.
Re the seals not sure myself but if they are old, you will be better with a mineral oil (I think). I also change my oil at 10000km's or once a year whatever comes first I look at it this way oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild (however the old ute engine does need a rebuild but the $$ for that are better spent on a Zed engine
)
Any mechanics on the forum? Or an oil rep?
Why ask these question? Well it will partly determine what you should use. My Navara Ute (Z20 engine = L20b with a cross flow NAPS-Z head) has done 255,000km's and I am using a 100% Mineral Oil grade is 20w/60. Not as thin as a 15w/60 but due to the km's of the vehicle this oil will provide good start-up protection.
Re the seals not sure myself but if they are old, you will be better with a mineral oil (I think). I also change my oil at 10000km's or once a year whatever comes first I look at it this way oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild (however the old ute engine does need a rebuild but the $$ for that are better spent on a Zed engine
)Any mechanics on the forum? Or an oil rep?
76 RS30 260z
70 Mini Cooper S (replica)
Previous
73 RS30 260z track
70 HS30-00016 240z
72 HS30 240z 2.8 track
71 HS30 240z 3.2 road/track
79 HS130 280zx
82 HS130 280zx T top
2x 73 KP710 160JSSS
74 KB210 120Y Coupe
71 510 1600 Deluxe
70 Mini Cooper S (replica)
Previous
73 RS30 260z track
70 HS30-00016 240z
72 HS30 240z 2.8 track
71 HS30 240z 3.2 road/track
79 HS130 280zx
82 HS130 280zx T top
2x 73 KP710 160JSSS
74 KB210 120Y Coupe
71 510 1600 Deluxe
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geordieggg
- Posts: 91
- Location: Watching the polar bears walk past.............
Not a mechanic, but worked for one for four years, and picked up a thing or two...........
First point of interest, doesn't matter what oil is in your car, it doesn't circulate properly for at least 20 seconds or so.
Second, recommended oil change periods are 10,000k's or 6 months, in normal driving conditions. If you do frequent short trips, drive the car extremely hard all the time, or don't drive it at all, halve these periods.
Third, it shouldn't matter whether it's mineral or synthetic. I've always been told with a new engine, only use mineral based for the first 5,000k's or so (use running in oil for the initial start up and 15 or so k's, but that's it, as it has great initial protection but thins out extremely quickly), then after that it doesn't really matter too much as long as the grade is correct for your conditions, e.g. engine manufacturers specs, local weather, driving conditions etc.
Always make sure you change the filter when changing the oil, and try not to use engine flush treatments, as these can leave a residue in the engine that thins out the new oil.
Both my Z cars have (without knowing when or if at all the engine was rebuilt) fully synthetic oil in them without a problem. My personal preference is for either Castrol or Shell, with Shell Helix being my normal choice. I avoid any Valvoline oils, I personally think they are nowhere near as good (put the recommended Valvoline in the crusty old Maxima and it burnt through most of it within 3 months, switched the Pennzoil (when it was cheap) and haven't touched it since). I've put Valvoline VR1 Racing (10W-40) into the Zed recently, I know it's in contradiction to what I said above, but I thought I'd give them another go (motor's going to be rebuilt shortly anyway, so doesn't matter if it isn't as good as others)
That's just my opinion, for what it's worth. I do agree with Nzeder's questions and his theory that oil is definitely cheaper than an engine, it's called preventative maintenance and worth doing if you value the vehicle.
NOTE - These are my opinions, I DO NOT work for and never have worked for any oil company.
First point of interest, doesn't matter what oil is in your car, it doesn't circulate properly for at least 20 seconds or so.
Second, recommended oil change periods are 10,000k's or 6 months, in normal driving conditions. If you do frequent short trips, drive the car extremely hard all the time, or don't drive it at all, halve these periods.
Third, it shouldn't matter whether it's mineral or synthetic. I've always been told with a new engine, only use mineral based for the first 5,000k's or so (use running in oil for the initial start up and 15 or so k's, but that's it, as it has great initial protection but thins out extremely quickly), then after that it doesn't really matter too much as long as the grade is correct for your conditions, e.g. engine manufacturers specs, local weather, driving conditions etc.
Always make sure you change the filter when changing the oil, and try not to use engine flush treatments, as these can leave a residue in the engine that thins out the new oil.
Both my Z cars have (without knowing when or if at all the engine was rebuilt) fully synthetic oil in them without a problem. My personal preference is for either Castrol or Shell, with Shell Helix being my normal choice. I avoid any Valvoline oils, I personally think they are nowhere near as good (put the recommended Valvoline in the crusty old Maxima and it burnt through most of it within 3 months, switched the Pennzoil (when it was cheap) and haven't touched it since). I've put Valvoline VR1 Racing (10W-40) into the Zed recently, I know it's in contradiction to what I said above, but I thought I'd give them another go (motor's going to be rebuilt shortly anyway, so doesn't matter if it isn't as good as others)
That's just my opinion, for what it's worth. I do agree with Nzeder's questions and his theory that oil is definitely cheaper than an engine, it's called preventative maintenance and worth doing if you value the vehicle.
NOTE - These are my opinions, I DO NOT work for and never have worked for any oil company.
