Red Zed Build Thread
Re: Red Zed Build Thread
Witchcraft!
I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze.
And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like.
<3
I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze.
And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like.
<3
That looks good. Always wanted to do something similar to my car.
How about writing something up as to how you did this and where you bought parts from.
Would be good to send in a mail-out or log in as an upgrade for the early Zs
You could send it directly to me if you like.
bernjean59@gmail.com
Bernie Kant
Membership co-ordinator.
How about writing something up as to how you did this and where you bought parts from.
Would be good to send in a mail-out or log in as an upgrade for the early Zs
You could send it directly to me if you like.
bernjean59@gmail.com
Bernie Kant
Membership co-ordinator.
Bernie Kant
Club President
Club President
There's not really much to the install. Just plug it in.bernjean wrote: ↑Wed Sep 18, 2019 9:21 am That looks good. Always wanted to do something similar to my car.
How about writing something up as to how you did this and where you bought parts from.
Would be good to send in a mail-out or log in as an upgrade for the early Zs
You could send it directly to me if you like.
bernjean59@gmail.com
Bernie Kant
Membership co-ordinator.
It did take me a while as I started fixing the rubbish job I did of the stereo install years ago.
Bought the fuse box from here. Shipping is damn pricy, so would make sense to buy as a group.
https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5010
Looks awesome, been wanting to do that for sometime but i spend way to much there each time and it keeps getting dropped out of the shopping cart
What image hosting site do you use now? I have no idea what one to use now ive tried x3 and not much success at all without paying
What image hosting site do you use now? I have no idea what one to use now ive tried x3 and not much success at all without paying
mikey wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:15 pmbernjean wrote: ↑Wed Sep 18, 2019 9:21 am
Bought the fuse box from here. Shipping is damn pricy, so would make sense to buy as a group.
https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5010
Dammit, did you really have to post that link?? $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ beginning their migration now...
When you drive a "Z" the destination is moot
I've had a tiny amount of play in my rear wheel bearings so decided to rebuild my whole rear-end New CVs, bearings, aftermarket stub axles & companion flanges to take a 108mm CV.
Old vs new stub axles. They have a larger splined diameter and are beefier at the wheel flange. This now shifts the weakest point in the driveline to my r180 diff, but it should be good enough for my engine.
I also replaced all diff seals & o-rings so hopefully it stops leaving little puddles on the floor now.
I couldn't get a micrometer inside the hubs to confirm, but I've assumed the play was from the bearing spacers getting overtightened and mushrooming slightly. So I cut some 0.05mm shims and torqued the hubs up and things feel right now. The left hub required two shims.
Everything seems to measure up correctly and there's no play anymore. The spring-weight on stud seems to check out too.
However. At this point I realised I have a problem. Since my new companion flange accepts a 108mm CV directly, I no longer need to run the CV adapter plate I used to use. This means my axles are now 25mm too short.
So I've CAD'd up some 108mm CV spacers to fill the void. Ideally I'd run a different axle which didn't require the spacer, but since I've just bought all new CVs to suit these axle shafts, I'll go with the spacers.
I've also since realised I should've shimmed the inside race of the bearing as opposed to the outside. Because, if the spacers are mushroomed slightly, shimming the inside will bring them back into spec. The way I've done it means the balls in the bearings will be running on the inboard side of the inner races, as opposed to the outboard side like factory. But I'm just gonna leave it, I can't imagine it's a big deal?
Old vs new stub axles. They have a larger splined diameter and are beefier at the wheel flange. This now shifts the weakest point in the driveline to my r180 diff, but it should be good enough for my engine.
I also replaced all diff seals & o-rings so hopefully it stops leaving little puddles on the floor now.
I couldn't get a micrometer inside the hubs to confirm, but I've assumed the play was from the bearing spacers getting overtightened and mushrooming slightly. So I cut some 0.05mm shims and torqued the hubs up and things feel right now. The left hub required two shims.
Everything seems to measure up correctly and there's no play anymore. The spring-weight on stud seems to check out too.
However. At this point I realised I have a problem. Since my new companion flange accepts a 108mm CV directly, I no longer need to run the CV adapter plate I used to use. This means my axles are now 25mm too short.
So I've CAD'd up some 108mm CV spacers to fill the void. Ideally I'd run a different axle which didn't require the spacer, but since I've just bought all new CVs to suit these axle shafts, I'll go with the spacers.
I've also since realised I should've shimmed the inside race of the bearing as opposed to the outside. Because, if the spacers are mushroomed slightly, shimming the inside will bring them back into spec. The way I've done it means the balls in the bearings will be running on the inboard side of the inner races, as opposed to the outboard side like factory. But I'm just gonna leave it, I can't imagine it's a big deal?
Nice upgrade, looking at your last picture I see that you have drum pads with a disc calliper hanger hanging underneath? Or am I looking at something different? It's true that the R180 is not as strong as an R200 but they are still a strong diff and also lighter than the R200. Unless you make stupid power R180 works fine.
Bernie Kant
Club President
Club President
Yes I can see how that looks a bit confusing. I'm running a drum-in-hat style disc brake (Write up here viewtopic.php?p=44085#p44085). So the drum is used by the handbrake, but the disc brake is used with hydraulic braking
Yeah, that's my take on it too, would rather have the light weight of the r180. It's running a Subaru STI style diff which I think should be good enough for me. I'm not driving it very hard these days either.