Trouble removing Diff
Trouble removing Diff
Hey there,
I am having some difficulties removing my diff (R180 Long-nose I believe) from my 1980 280ZX (S130).
I have had no dramas removing the motor, gearbox and drive-shaft but cant for the life of me figure out how to attack the diff.
I have removed the drive-shaft and unbolted the axles to their hubs but leaving them poking out of the diff as I haven't drained it yet.
I got the rubber bushing off but in my haste I seem to have rather gruesomely buggered it so if anyone has a spare I am looking
It looks like I have to remove either the entire subframe or drain and remove the fuel tank :O . Anyways .. Think its best if I let the photos explain the rest
as always any help is greatly appreciated xD
I am having some difficulties removing my diff (R180 Long-nose I believe) from my 1980 280ZX (S130).
I have had no dramas removing the motor, gearbox and drive-shaft but cant for the life of me figure out how to attack the diff.
I have removed the drive-shaft and unbolted the axles to their hubs but leaving them poking out of the diff as I haven't drained it yet.
I got the rubber bushing off but in my haste I seem to have rather gruesomely buggered it so if anyone has a spare I am looking
It looks like I have to remove either the entire subframe or drain and remove the fuel tank :O . Anyways .. Think its best if I let the photos explain the rest
as always any help is greatly appreciated xD
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1980 280ZX, 350 Chev + W55 Supra manual (purple)
Yup, you can see the bolts in the last picture, there are 4 of them going up through the subframe with the nuts on the top of the diff, one/two might have an exhaust mount hanging off them depending on how original your car is. Usually to get the rear mount off without wrecking it you need to drop the crossmember down slightly or the way the manual shows (I think) is to remove the fuel tank and unbolt the stud that the mount goes on to which just seems silly.
You should be able to get the diff out from where it is now without dropping the crossmember, but you can drop it slightly to give a bit more room, you don't have to undo the crossmember mounts all the way. Also because it's an R180 you can undo the bolts in the flanges where the axles connect to the diff to remove the axles themselves, this will give you a bit more wiggle room/space.
You should be able to get the diff out from where it is now without dropping the crossmember, but you can drop it slightly to give a bit more room, you don't have to undo the crossmember mounts all the way. Also because it's an R180 you can undo the bolts in the flanges where the axles connect to the diff to remove the axles themselves, this will give you a bit more wiggle room/space.
Nissan 280ZX 2 seater RB26 powered.
Hey Guys, cheers for the replies.
DJ, the 4 bolts that bolt the nose section to the subframe have already been removed in the pic.
It looks like I am going to have to remove the fuel tank or drop the subframe down a bit.. I don't know how savvy I will be at that haha.
Its the purple V8 fairlady that caught fire on the Datsun Cruise to Colgate in Feb that I am working on.
Sadly I sold the white lady to fund other adventures.
You free at all this weekend Daniel
DJ, the 4 bolts that bolt the nose section to the subframe have already been removed in the pic.
It looks like I am going to have to remove the fuel tank or drop the subframe down a bit.. I don't know how savvy I will be at that haha.
Its the purple V8 fairlady that caught fire on the Datsun Cruise to Colgate in Feb that I am working on.
Sadly I sold the white lady to fund other adventures.
You free at all this weekend Daniel
1980 280ZX, 350 Chev + W55 Supra manual (purple)
never post an address/ph public anywhere on net unless you willing to risk it. for me, i wouldnt.