260Z engine swap?

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 6:04 pm

SWMotorsport in Sydney can supply flat top for L28 - prices can be found here on their site - easy to deal with either via the phone or email.

About 1/3 down the page price is around $250 AUD + shipping which would not be more than $50. And don't for get to factor in the rings $140 AUD.
http://www.swmotorsport.com/index.html? ... 32_01.html

Cheers
Mike

bernjean · Post by **bernjean** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:06 pm

Hi I've got a 1977 fairlady 2+2 recently restored. I purchased a well used 280zx and lifted the motor from it and threw the rest away, Dave from Z Spares rebuilt the motor and droped it back into the car. We used a mix of 200z and 280z fuel injection parts, the main difference was that the cold start is different on the 280. Am presently running it on the 200 ECU but will look at up upgrading sometime in the future. My recomedation is put 3 side drafts on it, Talk to Kelvin his car goes like stink. I have 280 badges on the side and back of the car, 2800 write boldly on the cam cover, and the testing station guys don't even bat an eyelid. Personally I don't think they have a clue. If I get pinged then I don't see a problem, as was previously stated the 280z in the states run the same running gear. I to dream of a turbo but engine needs lots of mods and I have spent enough. The car is a good drive and am happy with it. the L20 -L28 are good engines, stick with them.

snarfy · Post by **snarfy** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 12:47 pm

Thanks for the info on both the previous posts. I'll have to actually measure the bore etc now to see what, if anything I need oversize.

If you don't mind me asking, roughly what did an engine rebuild cost?, Maybe I won't bother doing it myself.

One more thing, I was chatting with a mate of mine who bumped up the compression ratio to 10:1 on his TR6 a few years back and said that he had problems getting it running right. Even with 96 octane petrol and a modified head chamber shape, he still had pinging going on at times. He has now changed the cetripital weights in the distributor to adjust the retard curves and runs an octane booster in the tank.

Has anyone heard of this kind of problem with a 10:1 compression ratio L28? I have an N42 head for this beast.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 1:14 pm

10:1 on 98 should be fine (assume head is done correctly) any more and you will need octane booster or better yet avgas.

bernjean · Post by **bernjean** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:05 pm

Thats a hard one to answer, It all depends on what you do. I had bits and peices chromed, had all the metal parts replated, and basically spent to do it once and do it right. I didn't used forged pistons, but had the dissy and injectors rebuilt , once you start it goes on and on,rebuilt air compressor, new belts hoses, fuel filter, frost plugs, etc etc. I recon that i spent about 8 big ones in the engine bay, That was everything, I stripped the engine out and removed all the parts and painted the engine bay myself, I had the zinc and chrome plating done, and handed the car and s/hand motor to Dave at Z Spares and he rebuilt and fitted the engine. I have never done any engine work before so was reluctant to do this myself, big beleiver in letting the experts do the expert jobs. i was not disapointed as Dave did an awesome job. Car runs fabulous.