8,000 rpm L26?

M4vr1k · Post by **M4vr1k** » Mon May 21, 2007 2:28 am

Hey all.
Got the 260 running properly the other day (was overheating, 3 liters of air and a rock out of the cooling system, and its okay now) so i took it for a fang down the road, goes nicely and all, still needs the cam timing adjusted perfectly though. Onto the matter at hand. My zed seems to pull all the way over 7500, and up to 8000, i first did this without meaning to, and havent done it since, It is just a reasonably mild cam and dual valve springs....Would the valvetrain and crank handle these revs?

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Mon May 21, 2007 2:37 pm

Yes if set-up correctly - however the bottom end is more of the issue due to harmonics etc. You can rev a L6 to 8000rpm or higher if the perp work is done correctly and you have a good harmonic balancer and balanced rotating assembly. I would not pull those revs using a stock balancer. You can pull those revs for sure but it will fail in the end - either the balancer will call it quits or the crank will give up. Now remember that the L26 and the L28 both use the same crank (79mm stock) so should a crank fail they are easy to find

Get your self a rev limiting device ie ignition module that can do this for you ie MSD etc set the limit that your engine builder recommends and be done with it = keep it within the specs of the engine/build.

At the higher RPM be careful as lash pads can and do move = smash = stops your engine from reving until fixed

ie again keep the revs in the range your head or engine builder recommend.

M4vr1k · Post by **M4vr1k** » Mon May 21, 2007 9:42 pm

alright, i am seeing the head guy on Friday, and will talk to him about what the head is built for. Good to know that its not going to fly apart the instant it hits 8,000 revs though.

nzeder · Post by **nzeder** » Tue May 22, 2007 9:38 am

M4vr1k wrote:alright, i am seeing the head guy on Friday, and will talk to him about what the head is built for. Good to know that its not going to fly apart the instant it hits 8,000 revs though.

Well I didn't say that I won't fly apart it should hold together with the right build. If you were using standard valve springs etc I would not push it past the stock red line period.

My 2c worth.

1. Find out what the cam range is ie 2000rpm - 6000rpm etc.
2. If peak torque is at 4500rpm and peak power at 5800rpm there is no need to rev any higher than 6000rpm (you will just add stress to the engine for no gain)
3. Set a rev limiting device as stated to keep you in within the specs of the cam/power of the engine (that is if you can't control your right foot

)

M4vr1k · Post by **M4vr1k** » Tue May 22, 2007 11:58 am

Thats a fair call. Its off to the dyno this weekend most likely, so i will find out exactly whats going on under the bonnet.
Might even need to source some race bearings...any way to get more strength in the block?
BTW mike, you still have yet to see my Zed, you must come out sometime to take a gander

Grunzter · Post by **Grunzter** » Tue May 22, 2007 8:10 pm

Hi There,
No doubt there are probably some good Dampers from Japan, but Nissan Motorsports USA still sells the original unit used on the old works cars (built by Tilton)...
# 99996-E1060 (S30) Competition Crankshaft Damper, US$400 List (US$300 net)
# 99996-E1065 Special Bolt/Washer set (for use with Damper), US$40 List (US$24 net)
# 99996-M1046 Competition Valve Springs (US$7.50 each x12 net)

"Featuring alloy steel construction and aerospace quality bonding with a new high heat and oil resistant elastomer, this fully degreed and balanced damper is finished in a durable black oxide. Can be used with OE W/P and alternator pulleys.
However, it will not allow the use of the smog pump, A/C and/or P/S."

...not cheap but nice!
Regards
Grant