My 350Ci Chevvy 280z build

Answer to most of the common technical questions
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Wasral
Posts: 23
Location: Christchurch New Zealand

My 350Ci Chevvy 280z build

Post by Wasral » Wed Jan 02, 2013 12:52 pm

Hey guys I currently brought my second Z car, its a 1980 280ZX with a 350chev coupled to a 5 speed manual Supra gearbox.
I will start a build thread in next week or so when I have some before and after photos.

It needs alot of work done to get it to the level I want it so I thaught Id make a list of the stuff I am going to be doing and maybe some of you wondrous Zedders can help me out in sourcing parts, reccomending shops for work etc.

here goes:

Engine Bay:
-Replace radiator with 3 core aluminum radiator (done!)
-Replace water temp sensor (done)
-Get made and mount aluminum windscreen squirter and radiator overflow bottles
-Install Gilmer drive pulley's and belt - found cheap on trademe (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =547851450)
-Remove factory belt driven fan for Gilmer drives so will need to mount a dual electric fan to front of radiator - **should I have it linked to thermostat, to a switch or permanently on?**
-Replace Chrome top on air filter and replace Chrome oil breathers x2 due to rust. same guy that does Gilmer drives does breathers for $9 and air filter complete for $65
-Install oil cooler - this I am completely on as to what size sandwich plate I need, do I need to use a thermostat etc?
-General tidy up with wires/leads, vacuum lines and pipes. braid all the fuel, oil and water lines
-Tidy up and Chrome dip my headers and alternator casing - wheres a good place to go in CHCH? I found a guy that sells new Chrome alternators for SBC's at $220 a pop.
-Eventually I will take motor out rebuild it (doesnt need it) and paint the block and engine bay.

Exterior:
-New wheels - I absolutely adore these (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 660897.htm)
-the 2 black plastic triangle grills on the bonnet and the black plastic long grill where the windscreen wipers go I want to be done in stainless or chrome, can anyone help me out where I may start here?

Interior:
-Jamex Adjustable bucket seats (done!)
-Pretty much starting fresh, keeping all the same factory shape but replacing in all black instead of brown/burgundy
-I am replacing the 3 Guages (clock, Battery and oil temp/pressure) with Autometer cobalt style gauges, I believe they are 2 and 5/8 inch.. I believe that is 70mm yes?
my only real query with the guages is has anyone replaced these with aftermarket ones before? is it easy to get the brackets to mount or do I have to make some sort of a custom bracket in behind the dash?
-will be repairing crack in vinyl dash (havnt seen a 290 not crack the dash) and re-vinyling in black. also replacing hood-liner, carpets, interior pillars all in quality black vinyl and carpet
does anyone know a good interior person capable of all this?
-the door cards have already been done in black and looks real good

PS: if anyone has some good interior trimmings in any color I am keen as I can paint black.. most my interior trims are cracked and split etc, I pretty much need the lot, even the plastic covers that go behind door handles (interior) are stuffed..

anyway I will keep this thread updated as I progress. any and all help will be appreciated.

Cheers
Trent.

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djz
Posts: 849
Location: Christchurch

Post by djz » Wed Jan 02, 2013 2:01 pm

You might want to edit out the swearing there :)

-Remove factory belt driven fan for Gilmer drives so will need to mount a dual electric fan to front of radiator - **should I have it linked to thermostat, to a switch or permanently on?**

Depends how hot the motor runs but I'd recommend a thermo fan switch. Does the radiator have a hole for one? I don't like manual switches as it's easy to forget.

-Install oil cooler - what size sandwich plate I need, do I need to use a thermostat etc?

A very brief look would lead me to believe the thread is the same as the L series and RBs which is 13/16-16 UNF. I would recommend running a thermostat. Do you need an oil cooler?

-New wheels - I absolutely adore these (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 660897.htm)

]They are very popular wheels, Karl is running the same wheels on his car.

-the 2 black plastic triangle grills on the bonnet and the black plastic long grill where the windscreen wipers go I want to be done in stainless or chrome, can anyone help me out where I may start here?

Don't know how you'll get on with chroming plastic but it'd be worth an ask? Stainless ones would have to be custom made and I can see it being very expensive

-I am replacing the 3 Guages (clock, Battery and oil temp/pressure) with Autometer cobalt style gauges, I believe they are 2 and 5/8 inch.. I believe that is 70mm yes?
my only real query with the guages is has anyone replaced these with aftermarket ones before? is it piece of piss to get the brackets to mount or do I have to make some sort of a custom bracket in behind the dash?

Mounting the new gauges isn't too hard, I've chopped up one of the gauge holder things before to mount them in to, that way you can use the original mounts for the gauge "box".

-will be repairing crack in vinyl dash (havnt seen a 290 not crack the dash) and re-vinyling in black. also replacing hood-liner, carpets, interior pillars all in quality black vinyl and carpet
does anyone know a good interior person capable of all this?

There's a company up North called Dashboard Restorations I believe, from what I've been told they do a very good job but that comes at a price. Karl has some black interior bits I think? Carpet can be bought brand new from Autodec, they advertise on Trademe.

-even the plastic covers that go behind door handles (interior)

The escutcheons get brittle over time and do end up breaking, you can still buy them from the States relatively cheaply (around $15US each I think?)
Last edited by djz on Wed Jan 02, 2013 4:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nissan 280ZX 2 seater RB26 powered.

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us2
Z Club Member
Posts: 1876
Location: Weymouth by the sea.Auckland.Don't dream it ,be there

Post by us2 » Wed Jan 02, 2013 3:26 pm

Wasral.

As a guest of the Z Club and forum user, you need to read the 'Terms Of Use' Regarding offensive language.

Please edit the offensive language from your post.
!972 240z
Retirement is great. Growing old sucks.

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Pest
Posts: 1178
Location: Auckland

Post by Pest » Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:28 pm

Edited! Sounds like a cool project, but please mind the language. Thanks.

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Wasral
Posts: 23
Location: Christchurch New Zealand

Post by Wasral » Fri Jan 04, 2013 10:13 am

Sorry guys, :roll:
I didn't realize I had put so much foul language in my previous post..
thanks for the quick edit pest xD as Im only on like once a week or so.

Depends how hot the motor runs but I'd recommend a thermo fan switch. Does the radiator have a hole for one? I don't like manual switches as it's easy to forget.
-The motors water temp now with the new cooling system doesnt exceed 185F, Oil I am unsure of.. and I have had a look over the radiator and couldnt find a hole for a thermostat.. the radiator is a custom one made up by silvesters, currently fans wired to aircon switch as no aircon - this is only temporary though.

Don't know how you'll get on with chroming plastic but it'd be worth an ask? Stainless ones would have to be custom made and I can see it being very expensive
-I saw a black 280 on trademe a few weeks back that had stainless triangular grills on bonnet, if anyone knows whos car it was or anything about where they got done?

A very brief look would lead me to believe the thread is the same as the L series and RBs which is 13/16-16 UNF. I would recommend running a thermostat. Do you need an oil cooler?
- I will be needing an oil cooler in next few weeks once work returns and money starts flowing again, why exactly do I need a thermostat? without the oil cooler isnt the oil flowing permanently through the motor?
does the thermostat sit under the sandwich plate between the block? also where does it wire to lol. I will take the oil filter off tomorrow and measure the thread etc

Cheers Daniel I found the escutcheons right away.

as for the dash Ill ring dash restorations and get a quote but is it possible the re-vinyl over the crack and just leave it under the new black vinyl?

Does anyone know karls online name? as I will be interested in some black interior parts whatever they may be..

A few other things I forgot to mention I think my starter motor may be on its way out, its making a single click noise inside the dash somewhere but not turning over at all when I turn key, the guy I got it off said he thinks its an electrical fault before the starter and that I should replace leads and terminals off battery so I am going to try that as its only like $50 to do, my only query is that the car has enough power to power everything else fine.. does it sounds likely to be a solenoid, starter or electrical fault?
Also I need to seriously look into getting a taller (higher ratio) diff or diff head but don't for the life of my know where to start, my problem is when Im in 5th at 100Km/h Im sitting at 3 grand RPM.. has anyone had any luck with either a hilux or chevvy truck diff with 280s having such a narrow wheel track I could imagine it difficult.

Cheers

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Wasral
Posts: 23
Location: Christchurch New Zealand

Post by Wasral » Tue Jan 08, 2013 12:35 pm

Sorted the starter problem.. it was the batter not having enough voltage (12.6V) should be enough to start most cars :shock: Right?
anyway I rewired the alternator using chunky welding cable and yet when engines running the volts dont go up at all instead they drop to 12.4V so I have a nice shiny chrome alternator coming from AKL to replace it.

My plastic windscreen squirter bottle and radiator overflow bottle went into the shop yesterday to get made up in aluminum I thought the quote was a bit excessive ($280+GST) but I suppose I am wanting some complex shapes done.
I went to A1 radiators and cooling on St Asaph street simply cause they had the shortest time frame to do it, though their time frame was still 1-2 weeks :o I guess its the whole after christmas rush why things are taking so long.

I am going to be removing the viscous fan and installing dual electrics.. one small thing though I read somewhere that putting the fans on the outside of engine bay side of your radiator can drastically reduce air flow and that they should be mounted inside the bay, how true is this? the only reson it concerns me is I am running out of clearance fast.

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djz
Posts: 849
Location: Christchurch

Post by djz » Tue Jan 08, 2013 5:12 pm

Most fans can be used as push or pull fans but if you mount them to the front you have the bits of the fan blocking the air getting to the radiator especially when the fans are off I guess? I run mine at the back.

You should have heaps of room with a motor that's only 4 cylinders long!
Nissan 280ZX 2 seater RB26 powered.

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