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1971 Datsun 240z: From blown head gasket to full monty

Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 7:37 pm
by toycollector10
Hi guys,
You might remember earlier in the year I was looking for an E88 head so that I could fix up my car. The head had gone porous and there was engine coolant sitting on top of the number 4 piston. Ouch.
I found a correct re-manufactured one out of California but as the block was also damaged (pitting in the affected cylinder bore) it was bored first oversize. Ground crank, all new bearings, pistons and rings, water and oil pumps, timing chain kit, cylinder head bolts, crankshaft balanced, hoses and etc and here she is. The pistons are flat tops but have valve reliefs so that the next owner can fit a hot cam if that's what they might want to do. This "keeper" is getting pricey but I think it's worth doing and it's still a matching numbers car.

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Rivet counters will see the RHD replacement brake vacuum assist correct braided hoses. Not unobtainable, but...... I want it to look stock standard as much as possible. And yes, I've got a red reproduction Bendix sticker for the vacuum cylinder.

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Posted: Fri May 12, 2017 11:14 am
by Andy
Good to see someone flying the originality flag high, thanks for the pics

Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:55 pm
by toycollector10
Can anyone help me with this problem: The rebuilt engine is back in the car but it's not at 100 percent, missing at low loading etc. I've done 600 miles to run it in so far.
Can anyone recommend an old school mechanic in Christchurch who would be able to fine tune the timing/electrics (if required) and the carburetors (if requred).
Or should I take it to an auto electrician first to establish that side of things then look for a carby specialist? Video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgNVHGFJLrw

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Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 7:08 pm
by BRONZEE
Flick DJZ a pm, just in case he's not watching this post. He might be able to recommend someone in Shakytown.

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 4:39 pm
by toycollector10
Photobucket now charging for 3rd party links/hosting. I'm not paying and hope that after the Internet backlash the scheme will be dropped or the price will come down.

Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:16 pm
by toycollector10
BRONZEE wrote:Flick DJZ a pm, just in case he's not watching this post. He might be able to recommend someone in Shakytown.
Thanks, Bronzee

Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:31 pm
by djz
You could talk to Damon at Rocky Auto on Port Hills Road, you may have actually met him at one of the Datsun Club cruises? He's just bought the business but I'm pretty sure he's operating as of now. He's very familiar with L series motors and carbs, he's got a 260C and a 1200 ute.

Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:34 pm
by toycollector10
djz wrote:You could talk to Damon at Rocky Auto on Port Hills Road, you may have actually met him at one of the Datsun Club cruises? He's just bought the business but I'm pretty sure he's operating as of now. He's very familiar with L series motors and carbs, he's got a 260C and a 1200 ute.
Thanks a lot.

Posted: Sat May 19, 2018 7:16 pm
by toycollector10
I'm slowly getting my mechanical issues sorted out. The (hopefully) last one is this: The car idles well at 900 rpm but when I am slowing down in 5th, 4th or 3rd etc at around 2000 rpm or less it shudders back and forth between the gearbox and differential and it seems to be felt in the universal joints. It's very annoying. Maybe one of the slides is sticking in its body? Do you have any ideas. I have 20 W oil in the carb dampers and they are both at the correct level on the dipsticks.

Shudder

Posted: Sat May 19, 2018 8:23 pm
by nustad
Also check the front diff mount as it might be in the driveline?

Posted: Mon May 21, 2018 11:20 am
by JonnySpeed
Nice work. Where did you source your engine parts from?