Zeubin's 1972 Datsun 240Z
Zeubin's 1972 Datsun 240Z
Hi everyone,
Since posting as the enthusiastic Newbie, I have managed to acquire a Z car!
I am the lucky sod who purchased the white 240Z in Pahiatua recently put up in the classifieds by 85_z31 on behalf of a lovely family who owned the car for 40 years.
This thread is probably going to be the journey from pickup to where I want the car to be which will probably be a 2 year timespan.
I am pretty new to forums so please be gentle!
I will take picture requests and try to update at least fortnightly while things are happening.
Thanks for reading, and I look forward to meeting you all!
Cheers,
-Reubin
Since posting as the enthusiastic Newbie, I have managed to acquire a Z car!
I am the lucky sod who purchased the white 240Z in Pahiatua recently put up in the classifieds by 85_z31 on behalf of a lovely family who owned the car for 40 years.
This thread is probably going to be the journey from pickup to where I want the car to be which will probably be a 2 year timespan.
I am pretty new to forums so please be gentle!
I will take picture requests and try to update at least fortnightly while things are happening.
Thanks for reading, and I look forward to meeting you all!
Cheers,
-Reubin
Last edited by Zeubin on Tue Jun 23, 2015 8:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Howdy, look forward to the build / journey.
I can answer the photo question.
Make yourself a photo bucket (if you don't have one already) and upload the photos to that.
If you are familiar with photo bucket skip this bit. After you've uploaded the photos to photo bucket there is a menu on the right hand size with different options for sharing photos. I think you want the image one, just copy the link below it and paste it in your post.
Remember to uncheck/ untick the 'disable bbcode in this post' at the bottom of the post text box.
And hey presto photos
P.s you need 5 posts or more to post photos to the forum
Karl
I can answer the photo question.
Make yourself a photo bucket (if you don't have one already) and upload the photos to that.
If you are familiar with photo bucket skip this bit. After you've uploaded the photos to photo bucket there is a menu on the right hand size with different options for sharing photos. I think you want the image one, just copy the link below it and paste it in your post.
Remember to uncheck/ untick the 'disable bbcode in this post' at the bottom of the post text box.
And hey presto photos
P.s you need 5 posts or more to post photos to the forum
Karl
Howdy,B101 wrote:welcome! your a friend or Greg's right Midnight Upholstery?
I posted up a picture of the 240z to a friend and Greg said he knew someone that was really interested in getting one.
congrats om the sale! have you allready taken it home to Hamilton?
Yep Greggles alerted me before I could get home from work haha
She's been in the garage since Saturday night.
Got her running on Sunday
Righto, I'll use this as my 5th post to get photo privileges.
Some things not working on the car:
- Electric aerial - Makes noise but no movement, is this a common one?
- Fuel Gauge
- Clock (big surprise) - Has anyone repaired one?
- Biggest issue at the moment is the clutch which won't engage. I'm assuming the clutch plate has fused to the flywheel after the 20ish years of storage.
Does anyone have a solution to the clutch issue without taking the gearbox out?
I'm going to try jacking up the rear, starting it in first, letting it get to 2k rpm and hitting the brakes to try shock it apart. Thoughts?
Cheers
Some things not working on the car:
- Electric aerial - Makes noise but no movement, is this a common one?
- Fuel Gauge
- Clock (big surprise) - Has anyone repaired one?
- Biggest issue at the moment is the clutch which won't engage. I'm assuming the clutch plate has fused to the flywheel after the 20ish years of storage.
Does anyone have a solution to the clutch issue without taking the gearbox out?
I'm going to try jacking up the rear, starting it in first, letting it get to 2k rpm and hitting the brakes to try shock it apart. Thoughts?
Cheers
I am jealous - nice score! Looks mint and unmolested. You have been very lucky! One thing I would consider doing is buying the personalised plate GE6493 so you can keep using your old black plates. I did this with my car - only bummer was I didn't have the old style plates so have had to repaint the new ones.......
Only if you are into that sort of thing of course.....
Keep the updates coming...........
Stuck clutch from Auntie Google......
At this point the object of the sport is to free the clutch disc while simultaneously subjecting all the components to minimum levels of mechanical stress. To this end the car, while still in the driveway or garage, is prepared as follows. With the transmission in neutral the engine is started and such tune-up tasks as required are performed to obtain a reasonably smooth idle. The engine is allowed to warm up so that it starts easily and reliably. Then the engine is switched OFF and the car is taken to a "safe" location such as an empty parking lot or field, so that should it lurch forward unexpectedly during the clutch freeing operation there will be no objects in front of the car into which it might collide. (You really do not want to be featured on America's Funniest Home Videos!) Now, get down to business with the following suggested procedure:
With the engine and parking brake OFF and the vehicle pointed in a safe direction, use a gas station type hydraulic jack to lift both rear wheels so they are clear of the ground by about two inches.
The driver then climbs into the car and confirms that there are no obstacles or people in front of the vehicle.
With the engine and parking brake still OFF, the transmission is shifted into high gear.
The engine is started and throttled up to a constant tachometer reading of about 1500 rpm.
The driver depresses the clutch pedal and KEEPS IT DEPRESSED.
With the clutch pedal depressed the brakes (parking or foot pedal, it doesn't matter which) are GENTLY applied. If the rust bond between the flywheel and the clutch disc is fairly weak, the clutch disc should pop free during light to medium braking.
A.) Brakes should not be applied excessively hard or allowed to slip for extended periods because this will only overheat the shoes and drums unnecessarily. However, we do have a back-up plan!
B.) If the clutch disc does not come free after a few gentle attempts as described thus proceed to more drastic measures as offered in step 7 and here you will need an assistant!
Confirm that the following conditions are extant:
Engine is at 1500 rpm
Clutch pedal is depressed fully
Transmission is in high gear
Rear wheels are off the ground and turning
NO obstacles are in front of the car
Driver is prepared to stop vehicle and switch engine off immediately!
Your assistant "snaps" open the valve of the hydraulic jack and the rear of the car drops to the ground. Because the clutch pedal is depressed, only rust is holding the clutch disc to the flywheel. When the rear wheels hit the ground the engine attempts to move the car forward (transmission in high gear remember?) but the rust bond between the clutch disc and the flywheel breaks under the torque load. The clutch disc should break away from the flywheel with the finesse comparable to that of an experienced child who can separate an Oreo cookie from the white stuff without generating a crumb!
This method is gentle and effective even if step 7 must be repeated (a rare situation) because the vehicle is never subjected to the "irresistible force meeting an immovable object scenario", since the car can move forward should the clutch disc not break free when the rear wheels hit the ground.
This technique is by no means new! As a matter of interest my first encounter with this problem was during World War II (1943) when my father decided to resurrect a 1929 Model A Ford Coupe which had been languishing for years with a collection of outdated, horse drawn farm machinery in a dilapidated shed on our farm!
Only if you are into that sort of thing of course.....
Keep the updates coming...........
Stuck clutch from Auntie Google......
At this point the object of the sport is to free the clutch disc while simultaneously subjecting all the components to minimum levels of mechanical stress. To this end the car, while still in the driveway or garage, is prepared as follows. With the transmission in neutral the engine is started and such tune-up tasks as required are performed to obtain a reasonably smooth idle. The engine is allowed to warm up so that it starts easily and reliably. Then the engine is switched OFF and the car is taken to a "safe" location such as an empty parking lot or field, so that should it lurch forward unexpectedly during the clutch freeing operation there will be no objects in front of the car into which it might collide. (You really do not want to be featured on America's Funniest Home Videos!) Now, get down to business with the following suggested procedure:
With the engine and parking brake OFF and the vehicle pointed in a safe direction, use a gas station type hydraulic jack to lift both rear wheels so they are clear of the ground by about two inches.
The driver then climbs into the car and confirms that there are no obstacles or people in front of the vehicle.
With the engine and parking brake still OFF, the transmission is shifted into high gear.
The engine is started and throttled up to a constant tachometer reading of about 1500 rpm.
The driver depresses the clutch pedal and KEEPS IT DEPRESSED.
With the clutch pedal depressed the brakes (parking or foot pedal, it doesn't matter which) are GENTLY applied. If the rust bond between the flywheel and the clutch disc is fairly weak, the clutch disc should pop free during light to medium braking.
A.) Brakes should not be applied excessively hard or allowed to slip for extended periods because this will only overheat the shoes and drums unnecessarily. However, we do have a back-up plan!
B.) If the clutch disc does not come free after a few gentle attempts as described thus proceed to more drastic measures as offered in step 7 and here you will need an assistant!
Confirm that the following conditions are extant:
Engine is at 1500 rpm
Clutch pedal is depressed fully
Transmission is in high gear
Rear wheels are off the ground and turning
NO obstacles are in front of the car
Driver is prepared to stop vehicle and switch engine off immediately!
Your assistant "snaps" open the valve of the hydraulic jack and the rear of the car drops to the ground. Because the clutch pedal is depressed, only rust is holding the clutch disc to the flywheel. When the rear wheels hit the ground the engine attempts to move the car forward (transmission in high gear remember?) but the rust bond between the clutch disc and the flywheel breaks under the torque load. The clutch disc should break away from the flywheel with the finesse comparable to that of an experienced child who can separate an Oreo cookie from the white stuff without generating a crumb!
This method is gentle and effective even if step 7 must be repeated (a rare situation) because the vehicle is never subjected to the "irresistible force meeting an immovable object scenario", since the car can move forward should the clutch disc not break free when the rear wheels hit the ground.
This technique is by no means new! As a matter of interest my first encounter with this problem was during World War II (1943) when my father decided to resurrect a 1929 Model A Ford Coupe which had been languishing for years with a collection of outdated, horse drawn farm machinery in a dilapidated shed on our farm!
72 240z plus bits
Cheers, that sounds a bit safer using 5th gear.
For the plates I understand you can re-vin with them and not have to get a personalised plate?
http://www.barnstormers.co.nz/797/motor ... er-plates/
This sounds like something I will have to investigate further
For the plates I understand you can re-vin with them and not have to get a personalised plate?
http://www.barnstormers.co.nz/797/motor ... er-plates/
This sounds like something I will have to investigate further