Marrow's '79 280zx
Excited to see what you're getting next.
I'm surprised/amazed, but I actually managed to get it out, and put the new one in, replace the dash and pedals, and drive into the city. Musta taken me about 3 days, but I'm a slow learner.
Downside is now I've got one or two electrics that don't seem to be working, oh well, another day another issue.
I'm surprised/amazed, but I actually managed to get it out, and put the new one in, replace the dash and pedals, and drive into the city. Musta taken me about 3 days, but I'm a slow learner.
Downside is now I've got one or two electrics that don't seem to be working, oh well, another day another issue.
1) Progress update: Auto transmission out, fresh parts ready to go in, just had to borrow a torque wrench from work.
2) Advice needed: I had to sand my spigot bush down a little with 80-grit to make it fit, now it slides into the crankshaft pretty smoothly. Is not being 100% factory round/smooth going to cause any serious problems?
Also, I know a guy selling tein S13 coilovers (rear) for pretty cheap, are these the best option to go down for replacing my stock suspension? I've heard that's usually what people use for the zx
2) Advice needed: I had to sand my spigot bush down a little with 80-grit to make it fit, now it slides into the crankshaft pretty smoothly. Is not being 100% factory round/smooth going to cause any serious problems?
Also, I know a guy selling tein S13 coilovers (rear) for pretty cheap, are these the best option to go down for replacing my stock suspension? I've heard that's usually what people use for the zx
Err when you say the spigot bush slides into the crankshaft you mean it's still press fit? If not you are going to need a new spigot bush.
Coilovers will need certification, you will need to either redrill the shock towers as the Silvias are two bolt where the Z is three or fit other strut tops.
Coilovers will need certification, you will need to either redrill the shock towers as the Silvias are two bolt where the Z is three or fit other strut tops.
Nissan 280ZX 2 seater RB26 powered.
Not sure where you heard that but doesn't sound right, I've never had a problem with them and you'd think after 45 years of making them if there was an issue they'd do something about it. They are supposed to be a press fit into the back of the crank.
Nissan 280ZX 2 seater RB26 powered.
I should probably update this more.
Help needed here D:
Ok, so I'm (pretty much) finished the conversion. But testing that everything still works, she won't start. Lights come on, but engine doesn't turn over.. I'm thinking either the starter motor, or the two wires that I need to join together to make it think it's always in neutral (inhibitor switch). Any hints/tips to troubleshoot this?
Also pretty keen for new carpet while everything is gutted like this. Black/red/other?
Help needed here D:
Ok, so I'm (pretty much) finished the conversion. But testing that everything still works, she won't start. Lights come on, but engine doesn't turn over.. I'm thinking either the starter motor, or the two wires that I need to join together to make it think it's always in neutral (inhibitor switch). Any hints/tips to troubleshoot this?
Also pretty keen for new carpet while everything is gutted like this. Black/red/other?
cheers.
Even plugging in the old selector-sensor from the auto didn't help, but then I pulled out one of those shiny square relays under the hood, and bridged two of the points with a blade fuse, and it seems to work.
Only problem now is I dont think my starter motor is lining up properly, so maybe I need to look at shimming it.. it's strange.
Even plugging in the old selector-sensor from the auto didn't help, but then I pulled out one of those shiny square relays under the hood, and bridged two of the points with a blade fuse, and it seems to work.
Only problem now is I dont think my starter motor is lining up properly, so maybe I need to look at shimming it.. it's strange.
Oh dear.. I think I might have worked out why the engine won't crank, and that sucks.
Why do none of the manual conversion guides mention there's a second spacer behind the flexplate?
i.e.
This would explain why I couldnt get the spigot bush in, and why I'm just getting a grinding noise when I turn the key perhaps (flywheel being too far out from the crankshaft?)
Why do none of the manual conversion guides mention there's a second spacer behind the flexplate?
i.e.
This would explain why I couldnt get the spigot bush in, and why I'm just getting a grinding noise when I turn the key perhaps (flywheel being too far out from the crankshaft?)